travel journal: annapurna circuit - part 5

Day 14 – Kokethanti to Kalopani (side trek to Titi Lake)

If I could have done something differently on this day, I would have stayed another night in Kokethanti or leave my bag in a guesthouse in Kalopani before taking the side trip to the lake (in reverse).

I wasn’t expecting any grand view at the lake anymore. I only chose to do it because of the name of the village and the lake – Titi. (mischievous grin) Well, that’s aside from knowing that I have more than enough time to spend in the mountains and my guidebook saying that it is highly recommended ‘as the surroundings nearly look like the Alps with pastures and a great view on the Nilgiri.’ (It must be right because when my friend from Europe saw my photos, he said that the view does look like from his home.)

I said goodbye to Nash when we reached the junction. He was going to Tatopani. He’s been to Nepal six times in the past decade or so and may be back again in a few years. I hope I could, too.

The road/trail to the lake goes up for about 200m through a pine forest. A few minutes in and I was tempted to go back because I was getting bored. I decided to continue since I wouldn’t be able to catch up on Nash anyway.

Titi Lake.

I reached the village and the lake in 1.5 hours. Well, it was more beautiful than Dhumba Lake, if I may say. The ACAP signboard states that Titi Lake is considered a holy lake in the Mustang Region. It is also possibly the only place in Nepal where breeding activities of certain birds (mallard and common moor hen) have been confirmed. Then why did they erect the electric poles in the lake if it was that important?

The way from the village was pretty straightforward and just follows a road, going through small villages and descends to Chhoyo. I was a little confused when I reached Chhoyo because a sign pointing to some other village points to the left. I didn’t know if I had to go there. But a kid told me to turn right instead. Well, I trusted him.

I could have reached Ghasa that afternoon if only there were any place to eat lunch. But since it still wasn’t the peak trekking season, the few teahouses in the villages weren’t open. And Ghasa was more than 3 hours away. So I just followed the trail to Lete, which was insufficiently marked. I did come across some locals though and thought they could only come from the village I needed to go to.

Unfortunately when I reached Lete, the nearest guesthouses were close. I was really famished even before I got to the village and I didn’t like the idea of having to walk another few hundred meters more only to be told that they weren’t open. I just felt like lying on the road and wait for someone to carry me to a nice guesthouse. Of course, that was never going to happen. So I walked.

While having lunch, a bus full of tourists passed. I wondered what if I hop into one. I probably would have regretted doing so. So after a few minutes of rest, I continued walking. I passed by a few buildings and then I noticed that the signs said it was already Kalopani. It’s probably the only two villages I’ve been too in the circuit which are actual neighbours. Weird. I chose the guesthouse which my guidebook recommended for having one of the best dal bhat in the whole Annapurna Circuit. I didn’t order it for dinner though. I am weird.

Kalopani is one of the very few places in the circuit where Annapurna 1 (7219m) could be seen and it’s said to be one of the best. But there was just too much cloud hiding the peaks that whole afternoon. One just can’t have everything.

Day 15 – Kalopani to Dana

I only planned on going to Ghasa that morning, which was at most four hours of walk along the trail so I started my day a little late. I left Kalopani at about half past 9. (Actually, I was also drying my clothes.) I didn't want to walk on the road so I tried to find the trail which was supposed to be just parallel to the road. I couldn't find the marks for the trail but since I was walking between stone walls, I just followed it until I reached the part where I walked the day before. Apparently, the trail was just for another 10 minutes and it joins the road again. Still, it was a better alternative with the soft ground, the shade of pine trees and the scent of jasmine.

Well, I was in for a surprise that morning. I saw another familiar person whom I didn't expect to see because his group didn't cross the pass the same day we did. I was about to tell him about what happened to us but he told me that they all knew the story. Okay.. And he told me twice that I was crazy trekking alone and carrying my backpack which for them seemed too heavy and too big for me. I was just laughing the whole time.

Ladder?

He went ahead of me. I was sniffing jasmine the whole time I was in that trail. When I reached the road, I then bumped into his companions. I walked with them on the dusty and craggy road. I intended to take the forest trail but missed it. The trail was supposed to start after the steel bridge but I didn't see any marks so I just continued on the road with them. After about an hour, we saw another trail head. They wanted to continue on the road so we separated and I took the trail. Going up was a little steep and the trail was quite short. But I got to see some monkeys and pheasants so it was all worth it.

I reached Ghasa before noon. Not wanting to spend a lazy and boring afternoon, I just had lunch in the village and continued walking. There was an ACAP and TIMS office in Ghasa and while waiting to be registered, I saw some poster about the Upper Mustang region. An interesting thing about them is the practice of polyandry, although it is a dying tradition. Brothers usually marry the same woman in order to avoid splitting of the land. It says that “a woman with two husbands laughs and a man with wives cries.” Splendid.

I was okay with taking only the road to Dana because the trail to Tatopani was supposed to take 8 hours and it was already afternoon. But after about 30 minutes on the road and upon seeing a bridge to the trail, the guy I was with wanted to take the trail. I was such a pushover. The trail just goes along the slope and very easy to follow, going through some small villages, with some steep ascents and descents. In one of the villages, I saw a pig; the only pig I have ever seen in Nepal. A local Hindu guy in Ghasa told me that although pork isn't really prohibited, they just don't eat it. In fact, I didn't see pork in any menu. It's either chicken, buff (buffalo meat) or yak.

Growing, buying and selling of marijuana is supposed to be illegal in Nepal. But in one of the villages, (I believe it is near Kopchepani) there were plants growing on the fields along the trail. In fact, I saw an Annapurna Circuit map indicating where there are marijuana fields. In Pokhara, there were people smoking it in a restaurant and nobody seemed to mind. And while walking in Thamel, I was offered marijuana by a street peddler, cautiously though.

Buffalo on the trail. Stay on the uphill side to avoid being knocked off the edge.

Since it was getting late, I crossed the bridge to Dana and ended up staying at the last guesthouse in the lower part of the village. The weather there was very pleasant. At 1400m, it wasn't cold anymore. Just a cool breeze. There was a fire in the hills across the river that lasted until late in the evening. I had to ask the guesthouse owner if the fire was a normal thing at that time of the year because no one seemed to be bothered. Well, it was. And besides, a fire wouldn't be able to cross the river, no?

Day 16 and 17 - Dana to Chitre to the village where I caught a jeep

Because the Annapurna Trekking Profile given by ACAP made it look like one could go to Poon Hill from the village of Chitre, I only aimed of making it to the village when I left Dana. I thought the nine-hour hike up to Ghorepani with about 1500m gain of altitude would be too much for me, too.

It's not really enjoyable walking along a very dusty road from Dana to Tatopani. I just didn't want to walk another 1km or so back to the trail, On the road, I saw some men carrying basket as big as them filled with what seemed like kitchen wares. I can't imagine how heavy they were. That's why I try not to complain about my own backpack. And then there were these kids wearing school uniform who kept on asking me for candies, pens or money. Visitors are discouraged from giving them anything because doing so encourages begging. I didn't have anything to give them anyway. I also came across a number of saddhus. I know I shouldn't but I am a little apprehensive about them because of the extreme behaviors they display that I have seen in some travel shows. I greet them though, hoping for some blessings (haha), smile and continue on my way.

The road going up from Tatopani to Ghara was winding so I knew there must be a shortcut. But I couldn't find any trail marks and there were no people to ask. The footprints I was following also kept going on the road so I really had no clue as to where the trail was. Thankfully, a man tending to his farm shouted at me, pointing me to the right direction.

The way up was steep. And very hot. And shades were very rare. The final part of the ascent to Ghara goes by a large rock slide area. But the trail was already repaired so it didn't feel dangerous at all. When I reached the top, I was greeted by a view of rice terraces. I thought of the Philippines. But I haven't been to that part of the country yet. (I know, shame on me.)

I liked the feel of the villages before Ghorepani. The trail goes through most parts of the village and I could observe people going on their daily lives. Unlike some of those in the circuit which seemed like they exist mainly for the trekkers. Or those that felt abandoned because people were nowhere to be seen. In Ghara, there was this man who was getting so frustrated with his buffaloes because they won't move no matter how he pushed them. There was a young mother with her baby getting some sun and older women chatting. And I sat by teenage girls who, judging by their giggles, were definitely talking about boys.

Sunrise over Dhaulagiri.

When I reached the ACAP check post in Sikha, I confirmed that there was no way I could get to Poon Hill without going to Ghorepani first. So I had to extend my day. I looked at the list of trekkers who came that day and saw some familiar names. The extra two hours would be worth it. But the weather wasn't on my side. It started raining when I reached Chitre. The sky was so dark I thought it was going to pour. So yeah, no Poon Hill for me. I wouldn't be able to brag that I climbed a hill in Nepal. (I don't know how high a peak should be to be called a mountain in Nepal. But at 3200m, Poon Hill is dwarfed by the 7000-8000m peaks in the Himalayas. Greatness is relative.)

Thankfully, the guesthouse where I stayed in Chitre has an unobstructed view of Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest mountian in the world. I was actually looking at it that afternoon but only realized the next morning that it was Dhaulagiri because of the thick clouds covering the mountains. And since the highlight of going up the hill was to see the sunrise over these mountains, I was already satisfied when I witnessed it from my guesthouse.

I still went up to Ghorepani. One of the highlights of the trail in this area is that it goes through a rhododendron forest. They're supposed to be really beautiful when they are in full bloom. From Ghorepani, it was a knee-breaking, ligament-tearing descent of thousands of steps. I came across hundreds of trekkers, many of them in large organized groups, who were going up. I wasn't sure if I wanted to trade places with them. While they were all panting from the a seemingly endless climb, I was killing my knees descending as fast as I could, sometimes almost running, in order to catch the last bus in Naya Pul. Apparently, it would take seven hours to descend.

Forest trail on the way down.

On the way down, I made an acquaintance with a guide who took a family to Poon Hill. Unsurprisingly, he also used to work in the Middle East and called me 'pare' when he found out I am Filipino. He told me I could take a jeep at the end of the trail. I was expecting there was some sort of terminal. But there was none and I had to wait when, and if, a jeep passes. I waited a long time before a jeep came. And since I badly wanted to be in Pokhara that night, I agreed to pay 1000 Rupees for them to take me to Naya Pul. I was the only passenger that time anyway. While waiting for the bus, a man offered me taxi service straight to my guesthouse in Pokhara for 1200 Rupees. I thought it was a good deal but I already spent so much for the jeep.

While in the bus to Pokhara, all I could think of was how I could get back to Nepal and do more trekking.

travel journal: annapurna circuit - part 4

Day 11 – Muktinath to Kagbeni

Apply a liberal amount of sunblock. Reapply every after two hours, more so if you will be under a cloudless sky with all the snow reflecting the intense light of the sun. Be sure to protect your lips. Cover them as much as possible. – I knew those things beforehand but didn’t really follow them. So I had a hard time getting some sleep the night before. My face felt so hot and my lips were throbbing. I had very bad sunburn.

The village and the ruins of Jhong.

Most of us decided to take a rest day in Muktinath after that very long day of crossing the pass. Besides, there are several temples around the village which are good for short hikes. But I decided to continue trekking that day. Although it was a little sad to say goodbye, I was also very excited. After conquering the pass, I was up for more challenge. And that is going solo.

From Muktinath, one can go either to Kagbeni or straight to Jomsom. I chose the northern route to Kagbeni for amazing views of the mountains. And besides, it’s the closest I could get to the Upper Mustang Region. This region is one of the least visited because of the very steep fees. The special permit costs 500USD for a 10-day trek. I couldn’t afford that.

The trail mostly follows a road and goes through the villages of Chongur, Jhong and Putak.  There is a suspension bridge before Chongur but I missed it because the path was covered with snow. I just followed the road which the bridge connected to so it really didn’t matter. (I wondered then what the bridge is for.) The trail/road is mostly going down or flat with a little gentle ascent. What’s more challenging was spotting the red/white marks to go through the villages.

Jhong is interesting because of the ruins of a fortress that gave the name to the village. The very word ‘ruins’ easily catches my attention. For me, it describes a structure which has suffered from natural or man-made adversities. And since it’s (supposed to be) old, it gives me a glimpse of how the place is decades or centuries ago.

From Putak, it is all road on the way to Kagbeni though it doesn’t seem to be regularly used. The walk was pretty solitary and the only person I met was a lonely old man herding goats. From afar it seemed like there was nothing to eat for the goats in that desert-like place. There was also a group of three other trekkers who were very nice to ask me if I want them to wait for me. I had to decline though because I thought they were too fast for me and I really wanted to walk sluggishly. I was also looking at the outcrop and floats. It was the only place in the entire trek where the rocks aren’t just schist and gneiss. I even saw a (possible) chert and thought that it was probably what Rachel described to me that she saw during her trek to the Everest Base Camp. (Yay, I really want to do that trek, too. Soon.)

Kagbeni from the stupa view point.

Later on, I saw a small village along the Kali Gandaki. At first I thought it was Kagbeni but the signs on the road said it’s Tiri. I took the detour to a stupa which offers one of the best view points of the valley. It was indeed amazing. I wanted to stay longer but the wind was very strong and there wasn’t much space around the stupa in case I fall. I also had to sit the whole time I was there so as not to lose my balance.

At the entrance of Kagbeni by the ACAP office, there is a notice saying that beyond that point is the restricted area of Upper Mustang and only persons holding special trekking permit are allowed. They have to take down that signboard.

Kagbeni is attractive with the old part of the village and its old houses, tunnels and fortress-like structures. It looks like a set for some TV show set in the medieval times. But what probably catches the attention of every visitor to the village is a statue standing in one corner. It’s supposed to be a protector of the village. Well, if the enemies are afraid of a man’s penis, he’ll be good at defending Kagbeni.

Welcome to Kagbeni.

Day 12 – Kagbeni to Jomsom to Marpha

The way from Kagbeni to Jomsom is pretty straightforward. Follow the road. Descend on a trail down to the small village of Eklebhatti. Walk on the road again. Walk on the riverbed, sometimes crossing the shallow water. Back to the road again and it’s already Jomsom, the capital of the Mustang District.

To amuse myself, I stopped at every electric posts wrapped with USAID posters to look at their different versions. The prints are in Nepali but the message is very clear to everyone. In a poor country like Nepal, proper sanitation is still an issue. And it’s a continuous battle to educate people about the health risks posed by ‘doing your thing’ in just about anywhere. In one of the villages along the trail, they proudly inform the visitors that every house in that village has its own toilet.

Some people end their trek in Jomsom, either flying out or taking the two-day journey to Pokhara by bus. The owner of the teahouse where I had a short rest commended me for deciding to walk while everyone else was going in the bus. Well, I had a goal.

From Jomsom, I had the option of going straight to Marpha using the road. But since it was still very early, I chose the longer route passing through some villages. The trail is also passing by a lake, which was also the main reason why I chose that route. Since the trail is on the other side of the valley, from where I stood I could see how big Jomsom is.

It was a gentle climb to Thini. But I had to stop before the village because my feet were already feeling weird having been inside my damp shoes and socks for quite a few hours. While drying my footwear under the sun, an old woman stopped in front of me. I was not sure what she must be thinking, but she was looking at me intently. So I just told her that I was going to see Dhumba Lake on the the way to Marpha. She smiled, pointed to the direction of the village and went on her way.

Dhumba Lake.

I reached the lake after about 45 minutes. Upon seeing it, I somehow felt that I was duped. I was expecting a grand icy blue lake or something close to that. But Dhumba Lake is green, a little small, more like a pond and more likely man-made. It was also fenced-off but the gate was open (and there was no sign saying it’s off limits) so it was probably open to public. I didn’t go in though. Haha. The trail climbs relatively steeply to a ridge of alluvial deposits. And then descends to the village of Dhumba. When I passed by a school building, the kids kept shouting ‘tourist.’ (Though some older people keep on saying that I look like a Nepali.)

After crossing the channel of a tributary of Kali Gandaki, I had to climb again a hill.  The trail, which narrows to just about a meter, then goes along the slope, probably a few tens to a hundred meters above the Kali Gandaki. The view of the valley and the villages was impressive. But with the weather getting bad and with very strong winds, I felt a little frightened. (The wind, apparently, is my enemy.) I could already see Marpha across the river. But the trail goes first to Chhairo, a former Tibetan refugee camp. I was tempted to stay there but thought that I might get too lazy to visit Marpha later in the afternoon.

Marpha is the center of the apple industry in the region. The place would have been really stunning if all the apple trees were in bloom that time. I stayed at the first guesthouse I found at the old part of the village. At 300 Rupees per room, it was the most expensive place I had stayed during the trek. It probably was the attached Western-style toilet. Old stone houses painted in all white line the narrow street in that part of Marpha. I looked around the village, went into a bookstore and bumped into the Czech guy who organized the crossing of the pass. Upon his recommendation, I tried the apple crumble in a bakeshop near my guesthouse. I’ve never had an apple crumble before but it was so good. (Perhaps another reason to go back?)

Day 13 – Marpha to Kokethanti

I woke up that morning at a loss. I knew it was the month of March but I wasn’t sure about the date. 4? 5? 6? Nor did I have any idea what day it was. Being in the mountains, I didn’t feel the need to track the time. It was my body that tells when it was time to start the day (which was always fairly early). And I end the day when I get to the village I was supposed to stay the night. Trekking has made me forget about the world out there. It is a wonderful experience being able to not worry about that, the real world, for a while. But I knew those blissful days were numbered.

A stupa in Lower Chhairo.

I traced my steps back to the direction of Chhairo and walked past the village and a series of walls which is supposed to be an abandoned camp of Tibetan refugees. After the village, one can choose between a shorter and a longer route. Of course I chose the longer route going to the village of Chimang, which my guidebook said was a far more rewarding trail. The way up the village is through stone steps carved on a gorge, offering a beautiful view of the valley. Entering the village, I saw a building from a distance which seems to display a cross. So there are Christians in that part of Nepal then? I’m pretty naive thinking there aren’t.

After the village, the trail follows a road going down to the valley. From below, I could see that many of the houses are built very close to the edge of a slope, while some with parts of the house already hanging. Ah, those people give a literal interpretation of something that I believe in; living life on the edge. On the way down, I saw two carcasses of dog-sized animals. I couldn’t be sure because their heads were pulled off. It seemed like they were brutally killed by some beast and most of the flesh was eaten away.  I walked faster than usual.

I crossed the bridge going to Tukuche to have lunch. I wasn’t still sure if I would take the trail instead of the road. While drinking the best apple juice I have ever had in my entire life, the American guy I met at the High Camp suddenly appeared. I was just so glad to see someone who’s familiar. I was enjoying being alone but the surprise of seeing again someone I knew was a different kind of delight. We ended up hiking together in the afternoon, just following the road to Kokenthanti. I think it was a good decision because my guide made it sound like the trail was a little strenuous and my legs weren’t really looking forward anymore to something like that that day.

I noticed there weren’t prayer wheel walls in the villages after Tukuche. While the villages we've encountered in the previous days were Buddhist, the people in the lower Mustang region are Hindus. (Ah, how do I make wishes now?)

travel journal: annapurna circuit - part 3

Day 9 – Ledar to High Camp

When I emerged from my room early that morning, all I could think of was crossing the pass. Although it was still freezing, at least it has stopped snowing. The whole place was covered with snow and there were icicles hanging from the roof of the guesthouse. The sky was grey. I checked the time and thought that it was probably just very early. The snow Buddha built by the Israeli boys was still standing. Er, sitting is the proper way to describe it.

I noticed one of the peaks to the west being illuminated by the sun. There was our glimmer of hope. Moments later, the sky finally turned blue. And while I was having coffee, I kept staring at it. It was as if the sky would suddenly be engulfed by dark, heavy snow clouds once I took my eyes off it. But the weather remained favourable. So it was time to go up to Phedi.

Ngyaw. The snow buddha. And some light from the sun.

Along the way, we came across the German couple whom Becca and I kept bumping into during the first few days. I was glad to see them again. But they were already going down because one of them was having an altitude sickness. I didn’t expect it because they seemed really fit and always got ahead of me on the trail. But they were still feeling positive and said they would just come back in October. I wish them good luck. Later on, we met more people going down. They told us that the way to the pass was covered with very thick snow and it was just impossible to cross.

We still continued going up. Because who knows, maybe the next day all the snow would be gone and we could happily go up and over Thorung La. Of course, that is only possible in my dreams. I guess we just stopped worrying about what would happen next and instead focused on achieving our goal for that day. And enjoy what we had in the now. And I did because I finally saw a yak. And more yaks. They were actually funny because they seemed to not move at all. We even doubted it they were real. And then a herd of Himalayan deer crossed the trail we were taking. They were so close to us but didn't seem to mind that we were there and wasn't in a hurry to climb the slope . If only a snow leopard had come.

While resting and having lunch in Phedi, one guy talked about hiring local guides to make a trail for us from High Camp to Muktinath since the snow was really deep. Perfect. We had a chance to make it.

While some trekkers stayed at Phedi, our group went up to High Camp in the afternoon. The ascent was very exhausting. It was probably the only part of the trek which is continuously climbing. I don't remember descending (which is actually better) nor any flat area. And it was very steep. The weather was very good when we started climbing. Halfway through, the sky darkened and snow started to fall. And it didn't stop until we went to bed.

(Side note: Worst toilet ever - High Camp. Not enough water. They'll probably just freeze. But still. And everything, I mean everything freezes fast. Oh well.)

Day 10 - High Camp - Thorung La - Muktinath

At 4850m, High Camp is the second highest place where I had spent the night. (Huayna Potosi high camp in Bolivia at 5000++m is the highest, though I wasn't able to get some sleep there.) And although I expected a sleepless night, I was surprisingly well-rested. It probably is also the coldest because when I woke up, I found the water in my Nalgene bottles freezing. I should have put them inside my sleeping bag.

Although we have agreed on the previous night that we would be hiring local guides to make a trail for us, there was still no assurance to it because it would still depend on the weather. And because it didn't stop snowing in the evening, the condition could be worse than the previous day. So when I went to the kitchen to get some water, I wasn't sure if people were getting ready to go up or down. Thankfully, the guides were already making their way to the pass. We had to pay them 30,000 Rupees (about 300 dollars) to do that. Fair enough.

Our group was the last to leave High Camp. I was a little anxious at first because I knew it would be a long day (9 hours of walking according to the guidebook) and I was not so sure if I could walk fast enough. But the good thing was that people were telling the truth when they said that the way to the pass isn't really steep. So aside from difficulty of breathing and the possibility of acquiring altitude sickness, climbing to Thorung La was not as difficult as I expected it to be. We were possibly going on a good pace because after an hour or so, we already caught up and passed the others who went ahead of us.

The cat made it.

Going up to the pass is supposed to take about three to four hours. Though I really had no idea how long it took us. I knew there will be several false passes, where one could only see blue skies before him. I didn't count them but there are supposed to be 14. 14 false hopes. But the climb was enjoyable and the one time when I was already tired and hoped that the flat area I was seeing was the actual pass, it was. Lucky me. We had our obligatory photo with the marker congratulating us for making it. I had my celebratory Goya chocolate which was as hard as a rock.

What goes up must come down. And apparently, going down was much difficult. The guides managed to make a very good trail going up and I was able to keep my feet dry up to the pass despite the very thick snow. But on the way down, it wasn't possible. With snow cover that was more than 1 meter thick and a very steep slope, we had a hard time. We kept on slipping and falling on our butts. At first it was annoying. But after several falls, I just laughed at it. Especially when the snow somehow made their way in my pants. I was just glad it was snow to catch my butt and not bare rocks.

Solitude.

After a few hours of knee-breaking descent, we stopped in a small area for a late lunch. It didn't seem like a village and I only noticed about 4 or 5 guesthouses. I found myself walking solo from there to Muktinath. Along the way, I realized how I really love being alone. I didn't have to think if I was going too fast or too slow. And it was very quiet. All I could hear was the sound my boots made as they crushed the snow beneath with every step I took. I was left with just my thoughts. (Although of course, I do also enjoy having some company.) 

So how did it feel making it to Thorung La? Of course it was exhilarating. And I admit it was a proud moment for me. I started the journey having doubts that I could even make it to Manang. And I had this plan of maybe hiring a porter along the way when I couldn't carry my backpack anymore. But I made it. Our group made it. Looking back though, it probably isn't the best moment I had in the trek. Doing the Annapurna Circuit trek isn't all about crossing the pass after all. It was more about not giving up despite the pain and discomfort because every single day was actually a challenge. It was about those little moments that came unexpectedly. And the unforgettable people. Well, it still IS one of the best moments.

travel journal: annapurna circuit - part 2

Day 4 – Chame to Ghyaru

No matter how early Becca and I started walking, it seemed like every other trekkers caught up on and got pass us. It’s either they were very fast or I was too slow. It didn’t really matter though because we were able to take in the surroundings, filling our senses with all the sights, sounds and smell.

It took us two hours to get to the village of Bhratang and another two to Dukhur Pokhari. It was mostly road at first, and then some trails going through pine forests. The forest ground was softer, which made my feet happy. But at some point, the trail is covered with snow and descending on steep slope covered with snow and ice was a little difficult. 

Bhratang

We could have had our lunch break when we reached Dukhur Pokhari. We were aiming for Ghyaru that day, which was a good three hours’ walk away and involving a steep climb so we decided to continue. Everyone we talked to were just planning to reach Pisang though.

The world is unfair. I mean, that place, the trail from Dukhur Pokhari to Upper Pisang passing through a meadow offers one of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen in my life. It actually felt like I was in a paradise. And yet only very few people are lucky enough to have the chance to witness it. Becca and I were so elated that we couldn’t help making weird noises (mostly imitating a cat and a raven) to express how we were feeling. If some person ran into us at that moment, he would have thought that we were already losing our minds. But then again, the crazy person would be someone who wouldn’t be touched by the beauty of that place.

On the way to Upper Pisang

From the lodge where we had our late lunch in Upper Pisang, we had a perfect view of Annapurna II and other mountains. It was so tempting to spend the night there but we pushed through with our plan. The trail we took goes along a gentle slope with small pine trees and shrubs. We even saw a small emerald lake below the trail. Spotting some Himalayan deer was an added bonus. After about an hour, we reached a prayer wheel wall. And from there we could already see Ghyaru, high above us. It seemed like it was placed there for some last minute prayer requests for strength to make it to the village.

It took me more than 45 minutes to get up to Ghyaru. At first, I was still laughing thinking how crazy I was to do be doing the trek. But when strong winds started to blow and some snow fell, I started to feel a little worried. I wanted to walk faster but with the altitude, I was struggling for air. I looked at the electric poles which goes straight to the village and it somehow disheartened me when the last pole I could see was still very far. When I saw the Gompa at the village entrance, my spirit was lifted only to be trampled again because no matter how many steps I have taken, I didn’t seem to get any closer. As I reached the village, I was just glad that I wouldn’t have to do it the next morning.

Prayer wheel wall before the very steep climb to Ghyaru

We stayed at the Annapurna lodge because the guidebook said it has the most beautiful view over the village. Being at the top, we had a perfect view of Annapurna II, III and IV. After settling in, we realized that we weren’t the only guests because Rey was also there. We felt a little bad because as much as possible, we wanted to spread the business in the villages we stayed in. But then, a good company was also priceless.

  

Day 5 – Ghyaru to Manang

I woke up feeling like I was not able to get any sleep. I remembered checking the time almost every hour and sometimes grasping for breath. At high altitudes, interrupted sleep is normal because the body adjusts to the low oxygen levels.

We left much later that morning than we usually did thinking that Manang wasn’t that far. Although the trail wasn’t that difficult, we still ended up walking for more than six hours. The hardest part of the day was going down a very steep trail after the boarding school in the village of Ngawal. It would have been easier without the snow and ice covering the entire slope. We also managed to somehow get lost. Instead of turning left to the village of Julu when we reached the valley, we went straight to the barren field and into the pine forest.

Amazing view of the mountains along the trail to Ngawal

The trail joined the road at the village of Mungji. We saw other trekker having their lunch but decided to eat in Braka because of the bakery mentioned in our guidebook. Unfortunately when we got there, everything was closed and we had no choice but to just go to Manang hungry.

I was underwhelmed with Manang. Only because I expected it to be much bigger. Chame seemed livelier. Manang felt like a ghost town you can typically see in movies, except it was covered in snow. There also wasn’t any signal for NCell (the SIM Becca and I were using) so we couldn’t contact her friends. We resorted to asking in all the guesthouses. And since Manang wasn’t that big and there weren’t that much people, we eventually found them.

It snowed that night. It was bothering because in just a few days, we would have to cross the pass. But then, we had no control over the weather so all we could do was to see what the following days would bring.

Interesting houses in Braka

Day 6 – Acclimatization day in Manang

Not having to pack all our things and move to a different village felt strange. The attached toilet in the rooms at the Yeti Guesthouse felt stranger, though. We were staying in Manang to acclimatize, which is necessary before heading to the next villages at much higher altitude. Acclimatization decreases the risk of getting altitude sickness.

It was still snowing in the morning but we decided to go on with our plan to see Ice Lake.  There were many short hikes from Manang and Braka but, at 4600m, we thought that going to the lake would help us in acclimatization more. We had to walk back to Braka where the trail starts and without our heavy backpacks, it only took us a few minutes to get there. As we started climbing, we could see the valley completely covered with snow. It was pretty, but it wasn’t good for our plans.

The snow didn’t stop falling and we realized that it was impossible and also dangerous for us to get to the lake. We just went back and tried to find a way to the monastery. Since the trails were covered with snow, we ended up somehow sneaking in the monastery entering from its back fence.  We also couldn’t find the gate going out so we just climbed its stone wall. It only stopped snowing when got back to our guesthouse.

Leaving Manang

Day 7 – Manang to Churi Ledar

The day started really well with blue skies and sunshine. We wanted to take advantage of the good weather so we agreed on going up to Ledar. Since Becca and I have already stayed in Ghyaru for a night which is above 3500m and two nights in Manang, we’re good as far as acclimatization is concerned. I missed the chance to see Ice Lake and Milarepas Cave. And going to Tilicho Lake wasn’t possible anymore with the snow. I had more reasons to go back to Nepal in the future.

Along the way, the blue skies started to get covered with dark clouds. Strong winds started to blow and I got a little worried about my nose. Covering it would make it much harder to breath so it got numb with the wind. We stopped only for short rests. We had to keep going because it the weather turned worse, it would be a lot harder for us to walk.

Because I don't have any picture of yaks. I stopped taking photos when we left Manang.

We had lunch in Yak Kharka and waited for the weather to get better. We were already above 4000m so we also gave ourselves time to adjust to the altitude. Fortunately, we were all in good condition when the snow stopped falling. We reached Ledar in no time and stayed at the first guesthouse we saw.

The temperature in Ledar was no joke and I had to use my down jacket. When the owner started the fire in dining room, we all gathered around it. Some people started boiling their water for fear of giardiasis. I only used my Aquatabs and thankfully, I didn't get sick.

Day 8 – Unplanned rest day in Ledar

It didn't stop snowing the whole night. And with thick snow covering the trail, walking would be very difficult. Some people in the guesthouse left for Phedi or High Camp. We could have followed the trail they would leave but with the snow at the pass, it would still be impossible to cross it the next day. So we just stayed there hoping for the weather to get better.

It kept on snowing until we went to bed that night. With that kind of weather, there were talks of being ready (emotionally) to go down if it stayed that way.

travel journal: annapurna circuit - part 1

Trekking was the main reason why I went to Nepal. And though I am not really a trekker, those beautiful pictures I saw while researching about the place convinced me that I had to do this. And besides, I wanted to physically challenge myself.

Day 0 - Kathmandu to Bhulbule

I'm pretty sure I missed my bus. I don't understand why I still had to go to the ticket counter when I already had my ticket. What's worse is that a wrong counter number was written on my ticket. Thankfully, the guesthouse driver accompanied me all the time until I got into a bus, which left more than an hour later. And why did I have to pay for my bag? (shrug) I've taken bus rides that were as bad so I couldn't really complain.

As we exited Kathmandu, the road started to zigzag on the slopes with almost vertical drop of more than a hundred meters. Definitely not the place for a little accident to happen. And the crazy driving didn't help at all. I could have just closed my eyes during that time but I couldn't. I somehow enjoy bus rides no matter how terrible they are because it give me the sense that I am not stuck in a place. The changing scenery tells me I am moving forward.

After more than six hours on one of the scariest roads I've seen, we reached Besisahar. Once I registered to the ACAP and TIMS office, I had to transfer to another bus to reach Bhulbule. I am still wondering if I got ripped off having to pay 250NRs.

In Bhulbule, I crossed the first of the many suspension bridges along the trail to get to the guesthouse where I had to meet Becca, my partner in the trek. I have to admit that crossing the bridge still scared me despite having done so many during my previous job. I have this crazy feeling that my (negligible) weight would cause the bridge to collapse. And as I scanned the trekking trail map, I saw that we do have to cross a lot of bridges. Well, challenge accepted.

Day 1 - Bhulbule to Jagat

It was only half past 4 at dawn but I was wide awake. I was already in a state of dreamless sleep at 8pm so it made sense. The light rain brought a little daunting feeling. Who wants to get soaked on the very first day of a long trek? But as I watched the sky turn from black to grey and blue, I felt that I should be ready for whatever the following days would bring. So I went back to the tiny room I was sharing with Becca and started packing.

The rain eventually stopped before we left our guesthouse. We had to walk on the road during the first hour or so of the trek. And we realized that we should be thankful because if not for the rain, we would have been bathed with dust. I preferred the mud. While walking, we saw a number of ongoing constructions which I deduced were parts of a hydropower projects. (Nepal's electricity is generated from it's rich water resources.)

The way to Bahudanda was mostly going up, a steep ascent. But since it was just the first day, I still had my energy and I just kept on going until we reached the ACAP office. Since it was still late winter, most of the fields were empty, many trees are without leaves and it's brown everywhere. Nonetheless, the view of the terraces carved on the slopes was superb.

The terraces on the way to Bahudanda.

We continued on the trail and stopped for lunch at the first guesthouse we passed through in Ghermu. I didn't have any complain about the place. (Except that they prepared food so slowly. But it meant more rest for me. So it was really okay.) As we resumed walking, we found out that there were more guesthouses just a few minutes away so we told ourselves that the next time, we would take a look around first.

To reach Syange we had to cross Marsyangdi River, another suspension bridge. I asked Becca to go ahead of me because at least with only one person on the bridge, the swaying would be less. But some goats decided to join me on the bridge so I had to stop and wait for them to reach the end. It was already raining by that time so we stopped for tea. Only when a guy pointed out did it occur to me that if it was raining in the 'lowlands', it could be snowing in the mountains. And what could prevent us from crossing Thorung La (Thorung pass) aside from altitude sickness was thick snow. I was worried at first but since it will still be more than a week before we have to deal with the pass, I just let it go. I just wished for the rain to stop so we could make our way to Jagat where we would spend the night.

The trail to Ghermu and the road to Syange.

There were no trails to Jagat so we had to walk on the road for about two hours. By this time, I could already feel pain everywhere. I kept on adjusting the straps of my backpack but to no avail. The road started to climb steeply in serpentine. We saw the shortcuts mentioned in the guidebook but they looked dangerous so we just followed the road. With a painful back and sore legs and feet, I started asking myself why I was doing the trek. I could be lying on a white, powdery beach if I chose to. But I wanted this. So I manned up, pushed myself and reached Jagat, albeit drained.

Day 2 - Jagat to Dharapani

Lesson learned: Order breakfast before packing. We decided that it’s better to trek early in the morning and spend the afternoon resting. But for some reasons, preparing food took a lot of time so we still ended up starting our walk later than we planned to.

On the road from Jagat, we passed by a couple and got amazed by how small their packs were. I think I could have put in my backpack all of the stuff they brought and I would still have some space for a little more.  After about half an hour, we found the trail to Chamje which would pass through a beautiful and romantic forest, according to my guide. What could I say? It turned out to be a dramatic forest for me.

Log bridges which I try to avoid but I had to cross three times.

After climbing the steep trail for quite some time, I realized that my cat, Ngyaw, wasn’t attached to my backpack anymore. I went down with Becca to find him. But she had to go back to secure our bags when we came across some people. Going down, I was still hopeful. But when I reached the road without seeing any trace of him, I was devastated. Someone must have picked him up if I had dropped him on the road. It made me terribly sad. I tried to convince myself that at least, he’s somewhere in the Himalayas. And maybe he’s making some kid happy. But I didn’t really think that I was okay with losing him. It’s like Ngyaw has become one of the reasons why I was going to these places. It felt like I had no more purpose in doing the Annapurna Circuit.

Of course, I had to forget the drama and continue walking. I have resigned to the fact that I may never see him again. So I just tried to divert all my attention to the place and appreciate the beauty of the surroundings. A few minutes after passing through a small village (Sattale?), B caught up on the couple we met earlier. I heard her shouting my name so I hurried. And there it was. B was holding my cat. Apparently, the couple found my cat. It’s probably difficult to explain how I felt that time. I was just so glad and grateful. But after the incident, I kept Ngyaw in my backpack most of the time fearing that I would lose him again.

The trail from Chamje was bearable ascents and descents. We even saw some monkeys which made it more fun. But nearing Tal, the trail started to wind up a very steep slope. It was already noon by then and with a rumbling stomach, I had a hard time going up. It was very difficult but the view after that tough part was just magnificent.

Lovely Tal.

Tal sits in an area where the valley widens and the Marsyangdi River flows smoothly. It is a very pleasant village and we were tempted to stay there. But it was still very early so we just had lunch in one of the guesthouses. One thing that I really liked about the trek was being able to dine al fresco. With the view of the mountains and the refreshing cool breeze, I somehow forgot the body pains I was enduring.

As we left Tal, we were asking ourselves if it was a good decision to move on, especially when dark clouds started to appear. But we also had to follow a schedule since we plan to meet B’s friends in Manang who were a day ahead of us and possibly do the side trek to Tilicho with them. So we went on and fortunately it didn’t rain.

A guesthouse in Tal. I love al fresco dining.

We were hoping to reach Bhagarchap that afternoon but I couldn’t walk any longer. We both prefer to avoid the road as much as possible. But since I was so exhausted, I told B I just wanted to walk on the road (which is shorter) instead of the trail passing through the village of Kabre. We stopped at the next village, Dharapani. The atmosphere was a little gloomy but all I really wanted to do was to lie down so it didn’t matter. As I looked at my feet, I confirmed that I already had blisters. I was glad the day was over.

Day 3 - Dharapani to Chame

It was still chilly when we started to walk that morning. There was an ACAP/TIMS checkpost in Dharapani and so we stopped. While they were recording our information, I looked around the office and saw a poster about a guy who has been missing for months. It dawned on me that what we were doing was actually potentially dangerous. All of us there were just probably seeking an adventure and living our lives. But somehow, an unprecedented event in that place could endanger, or worse, take away one’s life.

Walking along the road, we were looking for the red-and-white paints marking the start of the trail. But instead, we saw blue-and-white marks leading to the village of Odar. B and I spent a few minutes talking ourselves into or out of doing it. She would only do it if I really wanted to. But I knew she preferred that we take that trail so I told her I would love to. And besides, her guidebook said that ‘hardcore trekkers’ take that side trip, going up along a very steep trail. We’d love to be hardcore.

There are no guesthouses in the village of Odar. Instead, trekkers would stay in the homes of the residents. At the top of the trail near the entrance to the village, a sign listing the code of conduct which must be followed by guests is displayed. Since we were just passing by, we then descended and got back to the road.

We followed the road and upon reaching Danaque, we searched for the wooden bridge that we were supposed to cross. We found it eventually but there was no clear trail leading there so we just scrambled down the loose slope below the road. The bridge looked old and seemed like no one has used it for quite some time so I feared that it would break while we were crossing it. (Or it may be just me who is too paranoid about crossing bridges.) Going up, we got back to the road and realized that we didn't have to cross that little bridge. Well, we're hardcore.

The wooden bridge that you don't have to cross.

The trail to Temang was very steep with more than 300m of ascent. It also narrows to about a meter at some points which made me worry a little. Knowing that help wouldn't come fast in case of any accident, I couldn't be too cautious.

As always, we were rewarded with great views after an arduous part of a day's walk. Reaching the village of Temang, I looked around and realized that we were surrounded with snow-covered mountains. Despite the author of my guidebook being disappointed about the growing number of big lodges built in the village, I actually found the place nice because of the view. (Or maybe because it was the low season and there were only few people.)

Because my feet was still painful, B and I agreed to just meet at a guesthouse in Chame. I walked on the road so slowly, taking in the view and smelling the scent of pine trees. Going alone was actually kind of fun because I also had the time to look at the outcrops of metamorphic rocks. (har) But still, I couldn't help thinking about our safety.

The trail started again after the first guesthouse in Thanchouk. It was flat most of the time and there was even a soccer field. And then it descended towards the suspension bridge. The trail passes through a small landslide area and I was wandering if I was on the right track. But since I saw foot prints, I just went ahead hoping that the slope wouldn't fail. By the time I crossed the bridge and climbed up a very steep slope following some cows, I was famished. I stopped by the first guesthouse only to be disappointed because it was closed. That was the problem with trekking out of season. With very few trekkers, many of the guesthouses were closed. Thankfully, there was one open guesthouse at the end of the village.

From Thanchouk, it was just an hour and a half to Chame walking on the road. My guidebook didn't mention about any trail but when I saw one, I decided to take it. The trail covered with pine needles was actually better for my feet than the craggy road. It led me to a very small village of Chhitepu and shortly joined the road again. At the ACAP checkpoint in Koto, I caught up with the Israeli girls and their porter. He asked me how I was able to carry my backpack. I didn't have an answer for that.

Happy trekking! Vandalism on the road cut.

While walking, I was following an old Nepali man carrying a big bag that seemed very heavy. I saw from his face that he was already tired. I know it isn't right but I couldn't help but feel sorry for him. He probably grew up that way, walking village after village since the roads in the area were fairly new. But I still feel a little sad thinking about the disparity in people's lives.

When I reached the guesthouse where I was supposed to meet B, I still found myself having the energy to go around the village. After a quick sort-of-shower (the last one I had until crossing the pass), I went out to find the hospital expecting that they could do something about my blisters there. A local woman told me that it was still a half an hour away so I just turned back. I wish they had put it on the signboard so that I didn't hope. Since there wasn't any store selling moleskin, I settled for band aids. I didn't have the courage to prick my blisters. And later on B told me that it was actually better that I didn't prick it because the resulting wound might get infected. Before going back, I lingered at the suspension bridge to watch the play of colors during sunset. The sun was shining on Manaslu and as the sun went down, the color of the mountain changed from yellow to orange then red. It was probably the most beautiful sunset I saw in the entire trek.

Greeting every visitor to Chame. Internet. Hurray! Nah, I had zero interest.

While waiting for dinner, we were chatting with Rey, a retired Scottish gentleman. He's done the trek several times and commented that the first two to three days of the trek are usually the most difficult days. But then the body adjusts to the altitude and the weight and everything becomes bearable, if not easier. I guess he's right because I was actually looking forward for the next day. Bring it on!