to the temple of the moon and back: machu picchu, huayna picchu and la gran caverna

The view of Machu Picchu from Huayna Picchu.

"Is this it?" I asked rhetorically although I never meant for anyone to hear what I said.

"Well, let's hope it's not," said the guy in front of me, whom I didn't know but I had been 'adopted' in their group since we left Huayna Picchu.

Going to the temple of the moon wasn't actually part of the plan. I was at an office in Aguas Calientes considering which type of entrance ticket to Machu Picchu I should buy. Hiking up to Huayna Picchu, that big mountain that serves as the backdrop of those classic Machu Picchu photos, was highly recommended. I've never heard of Machu Picchu Mountain and was curious about it. And the ticket that only allows access to the main ruins was definitely cheaper. The guy behind the counter answered me in an annoyed tone when I asked him if it was possible to visit both Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain. He gave me a gruff no. In the end, I chose the ticket with Huayna Picchu and was told to be there before seven in the morning.

Machu Picchu in the early morning.

So there I was the next day, marveling at the view of Machu Picchu from the other side, where not everyone choose to go. I was rendered breathless by the beauty in front of me but mostly by the tough journey. It wasn't that easy to get there. It takes about an hour to reach the top of Huayna Picchu. The trail was a very steep, vertigo-inducing climb up hundreds of steps. Thankfully, they installed cables and railings to help the visitors climb and also for safety.

I hate that I don't recall how I made my way to the top of the mountain. Or maybe it was my brain's way of making me forget that terrifying ordeal. My memory would jump from taking photos of Machu Picchu from a viewpoint just at the foot of the ruins at the top of Huayna Picchu to that guy who told me that I had to either crawl beneath or climb over a huge rock. Then I was eating biscuits and drinking coke while seated at the backside because the best spot was already taken. Although only a maximum of 200 people are allowed at one time, the area was too small that it seemed very crowded.

Huayna Picchu

Technically speaking, eating is not allowed inside Machu Picchu. But I was so hungry because I haven't eaten anything that day so I broke the rule. I left the hostel in Aguas Calientes at about half past four at dawn. Instead of taking the bus, I chose to walk up to Machu Picchu in order to save a few dollars. I didn't expect it but there was about a hundred other people lining up for the walk. Again, it was a steep, one-hour climb to the entrance. But being there very early has a reward of seeing the place bathed with mist, giving it a magical feel. After taking a few shots, I rushed to the other side and joined the queue for the first group to Huayna Picchu. By the time I got to the top, I have already climbed more than 700m and it was just eight in the morning. And I wasn't prepared.

Moments later, I stood up from where I was munching, not sure what direction I wanted to take. At the checkpoint for Huayna Picchu, I snapped a photo of this poster showing other ruins that can be visited. Gran Caverna sounded interesting although it was located at the far side of the mountain. I followed the trail going to Gran Caverna and came across some people who were going back. I wasn't really keen on going. I was merely looking around.

I kept on walking a little more and saw this group of two guys and a girl. They were probably as undecided where to go as I was that time. The first thing she asked me was if I speak English. Uh-huh. And then if I knew where the trail was leading. It told her it said Gran Caverna and I had no idea what it was. I showed her the photo of the poster, even though the only information printed in it was the elevation and average walking time. Gran Caverna was even 200m lower than Machu Picchu itself. She asked if I was going. I just looked at her and smiled.

La Gran Caverna. No intiendo por que esto se llama gran. 

It has been an hour since we started the descent. The trail was steep but it was mostly steps carved on the slope. My knees were already aching and there wasn't even a  nice view to compensate for the pain. We were traversing a forest. At one point, the steps vanished and we had to climb down a long wooden ladder. I opted to go last and received an applause once I got down. It was THAT difficult, I guess. We continued walking until we reached a structure which could pass as a ruin, with plants clinging to or growing in it. Two teenage-looking boys were taking turns in taking pictures of each other on that spot. I got confused. That's what was waiting for us after all the difficulties we had to go through? And that was when I found myself asking that question: Is this it?

A few steps more and we saw an older couple sitting just outside a 'cave'. So that was really it. I entered, but only to sit and rest. The Temple of the Moon people are talking about, I inferred, was inside the Gran Caverna. Or maybe it was the same thing? It is little visited and there's very scant information about it. And the cave actually doesn't live up to its name. Grand.

Narrow trail and sheer drop. What more could you ask for?

We left after resting and shooting a few photos. Since we were descending most of the time to the cave, we had to go up on the way back. And it was also very steep. My knees started to hurt again and I told the girl that she could go ahead of me if she wanted to. She was so nice and chose to wait for me. Further ahead, the trail opened to the side of the mountain, giving us a grand view of Rio Urubamba. The trail was narrow with sheer drop to the valley floor but good thing was that there was railings. When we rejoined the main trail, we came across the second group of people who were going to the top of Huayna Picchu.

I never get to know those three who were the reason why I got to reach that part of the mountain, where I wouldn't go alone. But we shared some hair-raising adventure. We surely weren't impressed with Gran Caverna. But as always, it's not about the destination. And it gave me a story to tell. And if someone would ask me if I would recommend it, I'll tell him to just go and have some adventure.

Cliché lessons on climbing Mt. Apo

The so-called 87 degrees

There will be bumps

Just like any other special day that one waits and longs for, our rendezvous with Mount Apo wasn’t without bumps. In fact, it was met with lots.

I almost missed my flight to Manila, which meant I would also miss the flight to Davao. J missed her flight back to work and had to pay for another ticket, so she was a little reluctant to spend more for the climb. The doctor wouldn't give a medical clearance to R while Y and L almost ran out of time getting the results of their medical exams. Y had to be at a conference on the day of our departure to Davao. And the night before the climb, there was news of an encounter between the government troops and rebels somewhere in the vicinity of the mountain. Concerned people advised us not to go anymore.

But with persistence, everything was smoothed out. And fortunately, the encounter was nowhere nearby the trail we were taking so it was safe to climb.

Enjoy the ride

From the city, we boarded a bus to Digos. At the Digos-Kapatagan Road, we had to take habal-habal to the jump-off point at Sitio Baruring. The ride itself was already an adventure. Y and I rode together, with our backpacks propped up on each side of the motorcycle. I was sitting at the back and had nowhere to rest my feet. Throughout the journey, my legs were stretched, almost to their limit. Twice, when the motorcycle had to turn on curves, my left foot rubbed against the road. And at one point while we were on a steep descent, we kept on sliding to the front. Y was already almost standing to avoid sitting on my thigh because I have slid to her seat. Instead of getting fumed with our situation, we just laughed thinking about how funny we looked. We laughed so hard the driver got confused about what was happening behind him.

Have at least a Plan B. And be flexible

Our climb organizer, Albert, assigned the Kapatagan trail for us. It was the shortest trail, taking only three days. On the first day, we were only supposed to climb to Tinikaran Camp, summit on the next and spending the night at the summit camp and descend on the final day. Our flight was scheduled on the night of the last day and Albert was a little worried that we might miss it, with possible horrible traffic on the way back to the city due to some ongoing road constructions.

We followed the itinerary for the first day. But instead of camping near the summit on the second day, we climbed to the peak of Mt. Apo with only our packed lunch, water and some trail food. We spent the night in the same place so that for the third day, we had less distance to cover on the way down.

Just do it

I know some people will be frowning at us for not doing enough physical preparation for the climb. We are well aware that climbing is a serious matter, but we just couldn't make time out from our jobs and studies. We only had time to play badminton for an hour in the afternoon and we knew it was barely enough.

We could have opted to postpone our trip until we're already prepared. But we really wanted to climb on Valentine's Day. And besides, we didn't know when everyone of us would be available. So we went ahead.

The boulders trail.

When the going gets tough, the tough gets going

Yep, we weren't prepared. So we had to pay the price. Even during the start of the trek, when the terrain was still rolling, we were already languishing, lagging behind our guides. So imagine our faces when we saw the steep slopes we had to climb once we entered the mossy forest.

Aside from the steep climb, the ground was wet and at times muddy and slippery. Climbing was also like an obstacle course due to the many dead tree trunks blocking the trail. We either had to climb over or go under those trunks to get through. When we reached the camp, we were so tired that we just sat there and didn't assist our guides in setting up.

On the second day, it was the same at the first part of the trail, with slippery slopes in the forest, although it seemed much steeper. Once we got out of the forest, we were greeted by huge boulders and the smell of rotting eggs due to a nearby solfatara. While we were climbing the boulders, the wind would sometimes blow to our direction, carrying with it the volcanic gases. My eyes would hurt a little when that happened.

I might have an advantage over the others with my long legs, making it easier for me to hop from one boulder to another. So I asked our guide if it was okay for me to go ahead. He gave me the go signal. Following the poles with yellow ribbons serving as trail marks, I reached a flatter area near the foot of '87 degrees' and decided to wait for the rest of the group. I passed time picking more wild berries which I had been nibbling since early in the morning.

They arrived in no time and we had our lunch before going to the peak. The '87 degrees' looked really steep. And while staring at it, I was wondering if they were kidding us when they said that it was the way to the summit. Apparently, they were serious. I found out while climbing that it wasn't actually as difficult as it looked. And all of us reached the summit, after six hours.

Our group may be slow, but we never stopped. And we made it.

Hold on to the things that matter

We started our summit assault at half past seven in the morning. We've already walked for about 10 minutes when I realized that I forgot Ngyaw in our tent. I had to go back. Even if I get to the summit, my experience wouldn't be complete without the cat.

The cat at the peak of Mt. Apo.

When I rejoined the group, it was Roy, our guide who then started going back to the camp. He may have realized that our group moves tremendously slow and it might already be dark when we get back. We didn't bring our headlamps with us because we thought that without our heavy backpacks, the climb will be easier.

But Roy's intuition and assessment of our group was right. He may never admit it, but we're probably the slowest group that he has accompanied in the mountain. It took us six hours just to reach the summit. And although we were much faster going down, it was already evening when we reached the camp. Good thing Roy thought of getting our headlamps that we didn't think of bringing.

On the way up, he told us stories of couples who ended up fighting while climbing the mountain. Apparently, there were some guys who don't know how to be a gentleman. Or whose only goal was to reach the peak, with or without their girl. Or those who acted more girly than their girlfriends.

Guys, hold on to the things that matter.

Actually, what I really meant was on very steep slopes, hold on to the trees, their roots, the stems, those things. Use them to pull yourself up and to prevent you from slipping. Our late afternoon badminton games, it seemed, was not without use.

You can’t get everything you want. But still count your blessings

One of the things I look forward to when climbing mountains is being able to watch the sunset and/or sunrise from the peak. Since we had to change our itinerary, we would be at the peak in the early afternoon. That was okay, we would have a grand view at the peak right? Wrong. It was too cloudy that we couldn't see anything from the top.

Going down. The clouds decided to part for a moment to give us a glimpse of the landscape.

Our guide told us that the mountains get covered with clouds if the climbers make a lot of noise. So we kept our mouths shut, hoping that the views would clear up. Every time someone made a sound, she would be shh-ed. We waited. And waited. And waited a little more. Until it was time to leave because it was still a long way down and it was getting late.

Was I disappointed? Definitely not a bit. Despite the clouds and the slight drizzle during the first day, it didn't rain while we were walking. We got there and back safely. And most of all, we accomplished our main goal, which is to reach the peak of Mt. Apo.

But still, I want to go back. For the sunrise. For the sunset. Some guys have proposed to their significant other at the peak of Mt. Apo. To my future special someone (if ever you exist), there's an idea.

What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger

We were running out of drinking water on our way back to the camp from the summit. It was still a long way down. Our guide asked us if we wanted water. We said yes and he started climbing a huge boulder. It rained the night before and puddles of water accumulated on depressions on top of rocks.

We were a little hesitant to drink it, fearing for our stomach. But we were also thirsty. The water tasted like a much diluted iced tea. It wasn't that bad. And no one got sick.

Eat the berries

Okay, it’s obviously not a life lesson. But yes, try the wild berries that are scattered in the boulders area. But avoid eating those that are near the solfatara.

paragliding in pokhara

“Look Em! That’s Macch....”

“Macch....pucch...re..?”

My friend and I were both having a hard time at pronouncing the name of that prominent peak. Machhapuchhre's (literally Fish Tail) two summits resemble the tail of a fish, hence its name. I have been in Pokhara for three days already but that was the first time that I saw the mountains. I was somewhere in there just a week ago.

At half past eleven in the morning, we were in a jeep on the way to Sarangkot. It was supposed to be the best time to do paragliding, when the sun has been out long enough for the thermals to develop.

We stopped where there was a group of some men. Apparently, there was a little accident that morning. One guy was accidentally carried by a paraglider. He was able to hold on to a tree though so he didn't get carried all the way. That was how I understood it though I really couldn’t picture the event on my mind.

“Is it your first time? How are you feeling?”

“Yes. I am a little nervous. And afraid.”

We were walking to the jump-off area when the guard started yelling at us in Nepali. He wanted everyone to stay on the sides except for those who we ready to take off. The guard, well everyone, didn't want another incident for that day. Except perhaps for the driver of our jeep who probably has a death wish. Who cares about blind curves?

“So how long have you been doing this? How many times have you flown?”

“Thousands. I actually stopped counting eight years ago.”

That’s a little reassuring. But maybe I should have asked if he’d had any accident before. My pilot started strapping the harness on me.

“Em, I only need you to do something for me at the start. When I say walk, you walk. When I say run, you run. Okay?”

“Okay. But are you a hundred percent sure I am securely strapped to you?”

I couldn't really see what was happening behind me. I imagine the assistant was flying a very big kite. We were his kite. My pilot and I were moving, more like swaying, as the wing moved over us. I struggled a little following the movement. And then I was told to run. I ran until my feet lifted from the ground. We were soaring.

I let out a little shriek. What are you supposed to do when you couldn’t feel the ground anymore? But instead of a strong thumping in my chest, all I could feel at that moment was peace. It was quiet. And I was comfortably seated while my pilot maneuvers the wing.  There was no extreme emotion that warrants a scream. So I stayed silent.

“What is that beeping sound?”

“It’s a variometer It will keep on beeping as long as we are going up.”

We caught the thermal in no time. The sound kept on going. We were circling the thermal as we go higher. And it’s a little dizzying. I saw several more people away from us. From our location, it seemed like everyone were congregating in there. They seemed too close to each other. I was wondering if collision was a possibility.

Colorful wing.

“How are you feeling now?”

“Esta bien!”

I wanted to make an impression on my Catalonian pilot. But those were the only words I could muster. Catalonia – I kept on seeing it amongst a list of several countries at a guesthouse in the Annapurna Circuit trek. I thought it was another country I had no idea of the location. So I immediately lumped it with Eastern Europe. But thanks to the teasing of the other pilot, I learned that it was part of Spain. And it has been fighting for independence for several centuries.

“Maybe you’ll get lucky in the next century?”

If he heard it, he didn't react.

“Look there!”

An eagle was flying nearby. I was one with the birds, sharing their place. And then a microlight aircraft passed in front of us. Things were really incredible up there.

Unfortunately, I started feeling a tightening in my stomach. Maybe I shouldn’t have had breakfast.

“Has anyone ever thrown up while you were flying?”

“Oh yeah, there was this guy who kept on throwing up but he insisted on doing the cross-country. He threw up a lot of times.”

The cross country takes about 45 minutes to an hour. Brave guy, poor pilot, I thought. My flight was supposed to take 20-30 minutes and it had already felt like forever.

“If you want to take pictures, don’t look at the screen. It will only make you dizzier. Point your camera anywhere and shoot. Just look at the pictures later.”

A view from the top of something beautiful makes it more amazing. I admired the vastness of the Phewa Lake. Pokhara was clinging to it. It was a little hazy but from a distance, the Annapurnas and Macchapucchre, some of the giants of the Himalayas, can be seen.

I followed everything that my pilot said. But every minute in the air made me feel worse.

“Has it been 30 minutes already? I’m feeling really bad now.”

“Not yet. We’ll go above the lake. It’s calmer there.”

I felt that my pilot didn’t want me to go down very soon. And I wanted to enjoy more the feeling of being up there. But my gut was saying otherwise. Even after leaving the thermals and just hovering above the lake, I still felt like I would throw up anytime if I didn’t get back to the ground.

“Um, I’d like to go down now.”

“Are you sure?”

My gut was sure.

I was just so glad once we landed. Of course, I loved the feeling of being suspended in the air. I just did paragliding and finally able to tick off one more in my bucket list. But it seemed like I am better off being grounded. I mean, I’ve reached altitudes (5000+m) where one is prone to sickness, feeling dizzy, getting headaches and I had none of those. Maybe my body prefers that my feet (or the sole of my shoes) are always touching something solid as they go higher.

So would I do it again? Only if it’s free, I guess.

hiking with an umbrella: gulugod baboy

View from the top.

Gulugod Baboy - close to Manila, very easy to climb in less than two hours and also good for beginners, the chance to explore a nearby island and the beach in the same day, superb view at the top - just a few reasons why many hikers choose this mountain.

We were just supposed to be a group of five geologists but the evening before the climb, I mentioned our plan to my friend Kirstie and she decided to come without much thought. Her only past hiking experience was in Mount Pinatubo and since Gulugod Baboy is recommended for first time hikers, I was confident that she would make it.

We were at the bus station in Cubao before 5am. We intended to do the hike in the morning and just lounge on the beach in the afternoon. But it must be that it was the week before Semana Santa and there were so many people going to Batangas. We were only able to board the bus after more than two hours. Add to that the horrible traffic in the city and even in Batangas and we reached Anilao at past 11, while some other groups were already on their way down.

Blood pressure check for only 8 pesos. Photo by R. Escanlar.

Since it was almost noon, we had our lunch and halo-halo, some gratification before the suffering (from too much heat). We had no idea about the registration fee, but apparently everyone who wants to climb Gulugod Baboy must pay 30 Pesos. The trail starts at the road just across the Philpan Diving Resort in Anilao. It's mostly cemented road and farther up there were some more concreting works. The sun was so high up and it was so hot that I really had to use my umbrella. Yup, no shame in there.

The first part of the actual trail was very steep. We were done tackling that steep part when Kirstie started feeling bad inside her. I had to go down with her and on the way I thought how funny it would be if I didn't make it. It was only 1pm but with our pace, I didn't know how long it would take us. I've scaled Mt. Apo but not Gulugod Baboy. Haha.

Thankfully, Kirstie was better after a few minutes. But we had to climb the very steep part again. She kept on telling me that she didn't have the energy to walk anymore and I just kept on encouraging her. That was the only thing I could do. There were still some houses on the way with make-shift benches under the shade and we rested there for several minutes. We actually had plenty of extended stops but with perseverance, we eventually made it to the top in less than two hours.

Photo by R. Escanlar.

Now, I still don't see the shape of the pig's spine that the ridge is supposed to resemble, giving it its name. Even when my friend explained it to me, I still didn't get it. My imaginative mind wasn't at its best that time. 

Trees were scarce at the top. But the wind was continuously blowing so the heat didn't bother us anymore. We spent more than an hour there, just feeling the wind, basking in the sun, admiring the view and taking tons of pictures. On the way down, we came across a large group who will be spending the night. They must have had a splendid view of the sunset.

We still enjoyed a beautiful sunset.

While on the bus going back to Manila, I realized that it wouldn't really bother me even if I didn't make it to Gulugod Baboy. At least I learned from that experience that my longtime belief was so wrong. There is no town named Anilao. It is just a barangay in the town of Mabini. Okay, and more importantly, I encouraged a friend to engage in outdoor activities.

How we got there and back: We took a bus at EDSA Cubao to Batangas City terminal. We then transferred to a jeep going to Mabini. Since there were six of us, the driver agreed to take us directly to Philpan resort for 100 pesos each. Going back, we took a tricycle going to the jeepney stop. There were still tricycles even at six in the evening. The jeepney dropped us at a junction where we had to take a short tricycle ride to the terminal.

trekking the annapurna circuit

Why trek the Annapurna Circuit?

Or why trek in Nepal in general?

I may be a big fan of the outdoors but I am not too enthusiastic about camping. All the hassle of setting up camp and preparing meals after several exhausting hours of walking just don’t appeal to me. So when I learned about the teahouse trekking in Nepal, I knew I had found my cup of tea.

The other remarkable characteristic of the Annapurna circuit is the varying environment one goes through. It starts at lower elevations where the trails pass through semi-tropical forests. Day by day, the surroundings change from pine forests, shrub lands, some meadows, to almost desert-like environment. And you don’t get to see the tall mountains the Himalayas are famed for until after several days of trekking.

Trekking in Nepal shows you a glimpse of people’s daily lives. It also gives you a chance to interact with local people because many guesthouses are family run. Along the trail or the road, you’ll come across caravans, people and herd of animals transporting goods from one village to another, which is how things have been going on in that place for so many years.

When to go

Fall and spring bring the most number of trekkers to the circuit because they offer the best weather. Since I could only go at late February, I had to google how it will be like during that time of the year. Unfortunately, there wasn't any reassuring answer. I had to experience it myself in order to know.

The first three days were still warm enough. But the nights were absolutely cold especially from Ghyaru down to Kalopani at the other side of the pass. It rained twice, but only for a moment. Snow was the biggest concern and it did snow a lot by the time we got to Manang until the night before we crossed the pass. But we still made it.

The good thing about trekking in the lean season was obviously the lack of large number of trekkers. My trekking partner and I found ourselves alone most of the time, enjoying the serenity and the place belonged to only us. We did bump into a few others but they were always the same people. Hundreds cross Thorung La each day in the trekking season. When we did, there were just about 30 of us.

Physical preparation for the trek

One must have a certain level of fitness in order to trek the circuit. But how fit is fit?

I didn’t have the time to get some training before doing the trek. I was stuck with office work and barely walked during the day. The only preparation I had was an hour of playing badminton a couple of weeks before leaving and climbing Mt. Apo.

It may be insufficient because I really had a hard time during the first few days. But normally, the body eventually adapts to the strenuous ordeal one has to endure everyday.

Gears and things to bring

I must admit that I may have brought too much clothes for the trek, afraid of running out of something to wear and getting smelly. But hey, we all make mistakes, right?

Everything you need for the trek can be bought in Thamel or Pokhara. I brought most of the stuff that I already have and acquired those I didn't in Thamel. They are cheap but they definitely aren't what they claim to be. Quality varies. I rented a ‘TNF’ down sleeping bag in Kathmandu and it was really good. I bought a rain cover but my backpack itself was more water resistant than the cover.

Here’s a list of what I used and brought with me on the trek.

55L backpack - Black Diamond Onyx 55

Down sleeping bag – rented in Thamel at 70cents/day, I was told that it has a rating of -40. I was warm most nights

Down jacket – rented in Thamel at 50cents/day, I might have survived even without it

Drybags – 25L and 5L, for waterproofing of down gears

Trekking boots – TNF Storm Midcut, they say your shoes have to be properly broken in. I used relatively new shoes (and by that I mean they've only been used previously during a 3-day climb) and my feet were fine. It must be the thick cushion. I had blisters but it was because I used bad socks on the first two days.

Trekking socks – Smartwool (midweight), Wigwam (lightweight), two pairs of liner socks

Cotton socks – for sleeping, and I brought too much of these

Synthetic and waterproof jacket – Columbia interchange jacket, good enough

Baselayers – Patagonia Capelene 1 and 2, I mostly used them on their own during trekking; Uniqlo Heatteach, for sleeping

Tights – Patagonia Capelene 1 and Uniqlo Heattech for trekking, and a cheap one for sleeping

Quick dry long-sleeved shirt – Lagalag (yay to local brands!), used it for six straight days, including two sweaty days and it didn't smell at all

Trekking pants – I used two pairs, one for trekking and the other one I kept clean for sleeping

Windproof pants – bought at Thamel for 22 dollars, I would have been fine even without it

Trekking pole – bought at Thamel for 8 dollars, loved it

Headlamp – much needed for those night trips to toilets or when the power goes out

Nalgene bottles – 1L and 1.5L

Aquatabs – bottled water is very expensive and not good for the environment

Fleece headwear

Underwear and my much-loved sports bra

Flip flops

Sunscreen – never forget them

Sunglasses

Personal toiletries

Toilet paper and wet wipes – wet wipes, my other best friend

Medicine – for headache, stomach upset, colds, the usual

Chocolates – bought in Manila and flown to Nepal. It was an added weight to my pack but I am still paranoid due to a bad experience from buying chocolates somewhere in South America. And besides, it was more expensive in the circuit. I guess I have saved more than 20 dollars.

I wish I had bought a book because there was nothing to do at the guesthouses in the late afternoon after the trek. It’s easy to exchange books with other trekkers once you’re done reading your book.

All of me. Photo credits: F.

Permits

Before entering the Annapurna Conservation Area, one has to secure a trekking permit (2200 Rupees) at the Nepal Tourism Board Tourist Information Center in Kathmandu. Permits are also available in Pokhara and Besisahar. Trekkers who enter the area without the proper permits would have to pay more than that.

Trekkers are also required to get a TIMS permit at the same office. I paid 1997 Rupees as an independent trekker but for those who hire guides/porters or use a trekking agency, the price is just half. It is supposed to help rescuers find someone in case he gets lost. (If that’s the case, I wouldn't be found because circumstances didn't let me follow the itinerary I listed on my TIMS card.)

Aside from the fees, 4 copies of passport-size photos are also required to apply for the permits. For the TIMS card, you will have to write down your itinerary and insurance policy number. At first, I was vacillating over getting an insurance that will cover hiking up to more than 4000m. The only option I had was World Nomads but they would rob me about a hundred dollars for a three-week trek. Thinking of the worst possible scenario, I decided to go for it. The price of the insurance was nothing compared to the thousands of dollars helicopter evacuation would cost.

The NTB office was a 20-minute walk from Thamel. It is located in a quiet and beautiful building but the way to it shocked me in a way that I couldn't easily forget.

The Annapurna Circuit trek

The ongoing road construction in the circuit is the biggest concern of trekkers because it takes away the joy of walking on trails. Although the road can’t be completely avoided, the ACAP created alternative trails. I downloaded a free e-book (Trekking the Annapurna Circuit including NATT) and used it as my guide.

The trail starts in Besisahar, a six to seven-hour bus ride from Kathmandu. The bus stops at the ACAP/TIMS office where every trekker must register. Since I was meeting my partner in Bhulbule, I skipped the first 9km of the trek and took a very bumpy bus ride instead. Other people I met took the jeep straight to Chame.

The entire circuit is about 210km. The trails are well-marked and it is almost impossible to get lost (although we did, somehow). Red/white paints mark the primary trails while secondary trails are marked with blue/white paints. The marks are easy to follow but there are some areas, especially on side treks, where I had trouble finding them or maybe they didn't exist. You just had to trust your gut that you are going the right way.

Five to seven hours of walking are spent each day. The longest day is during the crossing of the pass which took me about nine hours.

Most villages are about two hours’ walk away from each other so in theory there really is no need to fear getting hungry. Except from High Camp to Muktinath where there is only one small cluster of guesthouses in between. And during the low season, many guesthouses in smaller villages are also closed.

Itinerary

The trek can be completed in as little as 12 days if you decide to take the jeep or bus in Jomsom at the other side of the pass. I originally planned to do a 20-day trek but the weather didn’t allow me to follow my itinerary. The side trek to Tilicho Lake was just impossible because of too much snow.

Day 0 - Kathmandu – Bhulbule

Day 1 - Bhulbule – Jagat

Day 2 - Jagat – Dharapani

Day 3 - Dharapani – Chame

Day 4 - Chame – Ghyaru

Day 5 - Ghyaru – Manang

Day 6 - Rest day in Manang

Day 7 - Manang – Churi Ledar

Day 8 - Rest day in Ledar (due to bad weather)

Day 9 - Churi Ledar – High Camp

Day 10 - High Camp – Thorung La – Muktinath

Day 11 - Muktinath – Kagbeni

Day 12 - Kagbeni – Marpha

Day 13 - Marpha – Kokethanti

Day 14 - Kokethanti – Kalopani (via Titi Lake)

Day 15 - Kalopani – Dana

Day 16 - Dana – Chitre (didn’t make it to Ghorepani for Poon Hill)

Day 17 – Chitre – Hille – jeep to Naya Pul – bus to Pokhara

Trekking solo

Almost everyone will advice you against trekking solo. For safety purposes, it’s better to hike with at least one other person. But it’s not prohibited to go there alone. I have met several solo trekkers, although they’re all guys. And it’s always different when you are a girl.

I used the Trekking Partners website to find someone I could go with. I hiked with her from Bhulbule to Muktinath. After that, we separated. I trekked solo for a week, only walking with other trekkers a couple of times. No untoward incident happened and I felt completely safe the whole time.

Is a guide and/or porter needed?

You don’t really need a guide because the trail is very easy to follow. And guidebooks describing the trails are sufficient. A guide would have been helpful to explain about the culture and traditions of the people living in the Annapurna Region and to introduce its flora and fauna. But it’s way out of my budget.

I have only met three other people who hired porters for the trek. In case you don’t have a porter and realized that you need one along the way, a porter can be hired in many of the villages.

The danger of altitude sickness

The thing about altitude sickness is that no matter how fit you are, you can never be sure that you are not going to get it. Ascending very fast may increase the chance of acquiring altitude sickness. In order to avoid it, an ascent of only 500m a day is recommended once you get past 3000m. It is also better to sleep lower than the highest altitude attained in a day. For the circuit, at least two days of acclimatization should be spent in Manang.

Headache, loss of appetite and nausea are the first signs of altitude sickness. This should be taken seriously as it could worsen and lead to death if taken for granted. Those who are experiencing it should stay at height for a few days or descend. I've met a couple of trekkers who had to go down and were not able to complete the circuit because their symptoms didn't go away even after staying at height.

Accommodation

Expect it to be very basic. Rooms usually have two single beds although there are a few with only one or three. Mattresses are okay and they may or may not provide blankets. You just have to ask if there’s none or if you need more.

Squat-type toilet is the norm but some have the western-type ones. High camp has the worst toilet. I’ve only had rooms with attached toilet twice.

Rooms are very cheap but they require that you have your dinner and breakfast in the guesthouse where you are staying. You’ll have to pay a lot more if you don’t. The cheapest I paid was 50 Rupees for a shared room. The most expensive was in Marpha at 300 Rupees. Some trekkers ask the owners if they could have the room for free if they eat there.

Hot shower is available in many guesthouses, but not all. If they’re solar-heated, it’s better to take a shower once you get there or else other people would have used up all the hot water. If there’s no sun, some guesthouses offer buckets of hot water for a few dollars. I've also tried electric- and gas-heated shower.

You could charge your batteries in the guesthouses but there are rooms that don’t have sockets. I only paid for charging twice. Other guesthouses don’t charge you for charging your batteries.

Is there internet in the villages?

If you badly need it, some villages have internet access. It’s definitely not free and very expensive. I never tried it and the person I know who used it said it was painfully slow.

But who needs the cyber world when you’re in paradise?

Food

The menu is basically the same in the guesthouses – rice, noodles, eggs, porridge, soup, bread, pancake, tea and coffee. Soft drinks, juice, chocolates and other snacks are also available. There are some who offer more like pasta and pizza; yak cheese and meat in others. In the apple-producing region of Marpha and nearby villages, apple products are a must-try.

Dal bhat – steamed rice, lentil soup and vegetable curry - is the staple food in Nepal. Compared to others, it is relatively more expensive but you get unlimited serving. And since I don’t really eat a lot, my diet consisted of varieties of fried rice and chow mien instead.

The general rule in the circuit is that the higher you get, the more expensive the food gets.

Dal bhat. Photo credits: R. Escanlar.

So how much does it cost?

It depends. But doing it independently and without a guide or porter is the cheapest way.

Here's a breakdown of my expenses (in US dollars):

ACAP Permit and TIMS Card - 42

Gears rented and bought in Thamel - 70

Transportation - 20 (I rented a jeep for 10 dollars)

Food and accommodation: 230 (for 18 days)

Insurance: 96