Nestled in a limestone area shaped by millions of years of
weathering and erosion, Sagada and its surrounds is characterized by a mesmerizing
topography that is only exhibited by this type of lithology. Imposing limestone walls are waiting to be
scaled by climbing enthusiasts. Underground rivers aren't uncommon. And caves dotting
the place offer thrilling adventure for everyone who seek.
The cave connection
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| Inside the Sumaguing Cave. |
Taking a guide is mandatory for the cave connection. It's pretty easy to secure one. In our case, we just dropped by the Tourist Information Center early morning and we got one in just a few minutes. For safety reasons, a guide should ideally bring only a maximum of three persons but there are instances when some guides take more especially when there are large groups and there are shortage of guides.
Doing the cave connection without a guide would be impossible because they're the only ones who know how to navigate inside the cave. And even if there'd be signs telling you where to go, they are essential to tell you where to place your hands and feet and if you'll have to use your left or your right. I seriously wouldn't be able to come out unscathed without the guidance of our guide.
We felt lucky that the guide assigned to us was not only very patient as we inch our way in the cave but also gave us bits of information about the Sagada culture. The landscape does not only give Sagada an allure but it has also been incorporated in their traditions, as evidenced by its use in their unique burial custom. For hundreds of years, they have been burying some of their dead either in coffins hanging on limestone walls or piled in caves.
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| A gecko carved on a coffin to signify prosperity. |
More coffins could be seen by the entrance of the Lumiang Cave. While older coffins are relatively short because bodies are placed in fetal position, newer ones are now longer with the bodies lain flat. This attests to the blending of their animistic beliefs with the Christian practices. Many coffins used to hang on a wall in the cave but the 1991 earthquake caused it to collapse. This is the reason why some bones and skulls could be seen scattered near the cave entrance.
Braving Lumiang Cave
We descended from the entrance of the cave hurriedly, trying to overtake the large group that came ahead of us but very carefully to avoid any slip or fall. I asked if accidents have happened before and our guide reassuringly answered no. By the look of it and considering the number of people who do the cave connection, it's impossible that accidents haven't occurred yet. But I still chose to believe him and followed him to the depth of the cave.
Not very long after, Edward told us to stay put and let him get to the bottom before we proceed. I looked at the small opening amidst huge boulders and saw a rope, Edward clinging to it as he make his way down. I was told to follow, squeezing myself as I bend my knees and extend my arms to grope on the rock face searching for a protrusion I could hold on to. I stretched my legs to the spot Edward pointed to so I could anchor myself and grab the rope beside me. Wrapping my hands tightly around the rope, I placed my feet exactly where I was told to as I make my way down. That was why one of the girls I saw brought a gloves.
There were at least four sections in the cave where we needed the use the rope. At one point, we had to literally 'sit on the air' while both our hands are holding the rope and our legs propped on the wall. On the other, we climbed some four to five meter high wall. When the rock surface is too smooth to use as an anchor to our feet, our guide positioned himself so that we could step on his feet, knees or shoulders, whichever he offered. I was thankful that my arms and legs are quite long.
And while we have both our hands free to use to make our way in the cave, our guide was holding a gas lamp which was our main source of light in the cave. (We brought our own head lamp which was really helpful.) It is really amazing how he tackled everything with only one hand to hold the rope or grab on the rocks.
The deeper we get into the cave the more exhilarating it got. Still, I couldn't help but imagine some unpleasant scenarios. What if I slip or accidentally let go of the rope? A bruise or a scratch is easy to handle. But a sprain? Or a cracked bone perhaps? I doubt that I'd be carried all the way outside to safety. How am I going to climb those ropes? Maybe Edward hid the truth about the occurrence of accidents because he didn't want to put more fear into my troubled mind. A battle was happening inside me to overcome the anxiety. The whole thing would be enjoyable if only I were able to let go of my fear. I tried to bury those bad thoughts so that I could move forward, convincing myself that we'd get out safely. And besides, a child and an elderly has completed the cave connection. What's my excuse?
Testing the imagination in Sumaguing Cave
While the whole stretch of Lumiang Cave is dry, Sumaguing has parts submerged in water. I'd like to think we're lucky that we were there during the dry season when we were only required to go through knee-deep waters. During the rainy season, the water could reach chest height and I'm pretty sure that this would have just added up to my unease.
And while Lumiang is more about the thrill brought by the difficult traverse, Sumaguing has a different offering. Here, several rock formations can be seen and this will test if you have a good imagination. Even before we entered the cave, I told Edward that he is really good caving guide if he could make me see what the rock is supposed to look like.
In a place I'd like to call the UN headquarters, Edward pointed out the different formations representing several countries. There's a maple leaf for Canada, the Grand Canyon for the US and some pottery ware for China. There's also a frog and a turtle along the way.
Continuing to the main chamber of Sumaguing, we could hear a lot of noise. While we didn't see another soul once we left the large group behind us, Sumaguing is a lot more popular and easier to tackle so a lot more people choose to visit just this cave and see its wonderful rock formations.
Taking a detour
We were standing on top of the alligator's tail gazing at the king's curtain when our guide asked us if we wanted to do something more and go somewhere which isn't frequently visited. He only warned us that the water is waist deep and the passages are a bit narrower. It had only been two hours and we were almost done with the cave connection so we said yes. And besides, my fear had been replaced with excitement so there was no reason to deny ourselves of more adventure.
Edward referred to that portion of Sumaguing as the tunnel. True enough, the route was a lot more cramped than what we had previously been through. We had to crawl and go down sitting with both legs stretched out on opposite directions, torso bent to almost touching the ground and right foot searching for a grip. All the while a small waterfall cascading along a low wall sprinkling us with cold water.
As we progressed, the course got a little bigger. Twice, we had to use ropes. The first time was to walk along a very steep rock face and I couldn't see how deep the drop was. Edward went ahead, again using only one hand to hold on the ropes and put down the lamp so he could assist us. Because the rock didn't have enough footholds, we were told to just step on his foot instead.
The second, we had to go down another vertical wall. My feet couldn't find a grip and although they were already under water, I couldn't tell how far I am from the ground. My hands were getting tired from grasping on to the rope and bearing my weight so when Edward told me to just let go, I followed but with a little hesitation. Good thing I was just a couple of inches from the ground.
The passage grew wider and wider as we continued until we reach a small chamber and eventually back to the main chamber of Sumaguing. The number of people has dwindled, probably because it was already mid-day. It had been an adventure-filled three hours that made the trip to Sagada all worth-it and in my mind I was prepared to do it again but still it was a welcome to see the sunlight once again.
* The cave connection costs 400 Php per person but we had so much fun with our guide so we gave him more. There is another part of Sumaguing called Crystal Cave which is more extreme and can be explored for about six hours but this costs a lot more.
Braving Lumiang Cave
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| This is me holding on for dear life. |
Not very long after, Edward told us to stay put and let him get to the bottom before we proceed. I looked at the small opening amidst huge boulders and saw a rope, Edward clinging to it as he make his way down. I was told to follow, squeezing myself as I bend my knees and extend my arms to grope on the rock face searching for a protrusion I could hold on to. I stretched my legs to the spot Edward pointed to so I could anchor myself and grab the rope beside me. Wrapping my hands tightly around the rope, I placed my feet exactly where I was told to as I make my way down. That was why one of the girls I saw brought a gloves.
There were at least four sections in the cave where we needed the use the rope. At one point, we had to literally 'sit on the air' while both our hands are holding the rope and our legs propped on the wall. On the other, we climbed some four to five meter high wall. When the rock surface is too smooth to use as an anchor to our feet, our guide positioned himself so that we could step on his feet, knees or shoulders, whichever he offered. I was thankful that my arms and legs are quite long.
The deeper we get into the cave the more exhilarating it got. Still, I couldn't help but imagine some unpleasant scenarios. What if I slip or accidentally let go of the rope? A bruise or a scratch is easy to handle. But a sprain? Or a cracked bone perhaps? I doubt that I'd be carried all the way outside to safety. How am I going to climb those ropes? Maybe Edward hid the truth about the occurrence of accidents because he didn't want to put more fear into my troubled mind. A battle was happening inside me to overcome the anxiety. The whole thing would be enjoyable if only I were able to let go of my fear. I tried to bury those bad thoughts so that I could move forward, convincing myself that we'd get out safely. And besides, a child and an elderly has completed the cave connection. What's my excuse?
Testing the imagination in Sumaguing Cave
While the whole stretch of Lumiang Cave is dry, Sumaguing has parts submerged in water. I'd like to think we're lucky that we were there during the dry season when we were only required to go through knee-deep waters. During the rainy season, the water could reach chest height and I'm pretty sure that this would have just added up to my unease.
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| Wading in the waters of Sumaguing Cave. |
In a place I'd like to call the UN headquarters, Edward pointed out the different formations representing several countries. There's a maple leaf for Canada, the Grand Canyon for the US and some pottery ware for China. There's also a frog and a turtle along the way.
Continuing to the main chamber of Sumaguing, we could hear a lot of noise. While we didn't see another soul once we left the large group behind us, Sumaguing is a lot more popular and easier to tackle so a lot more people choose to visit just this cave and see its wonderful rock formations.
Taking a detour
We were standing on top of the alligator's tail gazing at the king's curtain when our guide asked us if we wanted to do something more and go somewhere which isn't frequently visited. He only warned us that the water is waist deep and the passages are a bit narrower. It had only been two hours and we were almost done with the cave connection so we said yes. And besides, my fear had been replaced with excitement so there was no reason to deny ourselves of more adventure.
As we progressed, the course got a little bigger. Twice, we had to use ropes. The first time was to walk along a very steep rock face and I couldn't see how deep the drop was. Edward went ahead, again using only one hand to hold on the ropes and put down the lamp so he could assist us. Because the rock didn't have enough footholds, we were told to just step on his foot instead.
The second, we had to go down another vertical wall. My feet couldn't find a grip and although they were already under water, I couldn't tell how far I am from the ground. My hands were getting tired from grasping on to the rope and bearing my weight so when Edward told me to just let go, I followed but with a little hesitation. Good thing I was just a couple of inches from the ground.
The passage grew wider and wider as we continued until we reach a small chamber and eventually back to the main chamber of Sumaguing. The number of people has dwindled, probably because it was already mid-day. It had been an adventure-filled three hours that made the trip to Sagada all worth-it and in my mind I was prepared to do it again but still it was a welcome to see the sunlight once again.
* The cave connection costs 400 Php per person but we had so much fun with our guide so we gave him more. There is another part of Sumaguing called Crystal Cave which is more extreme and can be explored for about six hours but this costs a lot more.
