bromo on foot

It was a quarter before 3am when I stepped out of the door of the house we were staying in. It was cool, but not as cold as I expected it to be. We didn’t have dinner so my stomach was rumbling. But at least I managed to get some sleep despite the noise from the garage which was just outside our room.

The same guy who had been bugging us since we got there late in the night was outside, waiting for us, still trying to convince us to take the ojek to Penanjakan. I told him we really prefer to walk.

“But it’s 21 kilometers!” He declared, hoping that we would finally give in. I smiled at him and said that no, it’s just a two-hour walk. It couldn't be that far.

Kris came out as the guy left. She asked which direction we were going. I really didn't know. Although we had a map, it was so crude we couldn't make anything assuring out of it. Luckily, an old man passed by and showed us the right way.

We were on our way to a viewpoint where we could see the sunrise and the landscape of the Tengger caldera. The famous Gunung Bromo lies within this caldera, among with other volcanoes and the cone-shaped Gunung Batok. Most people goes on a jeep tour to visit the crater and the volcano. In fact, hundreds of people take these jeeps everyday. Wanting to avoid the crowd, we chose to approach it on foot.

The whole time we were walking along the road, we were thinking if we were taking the right one. We expected that it would be a trail, but it wasn't. We heard a jeep going our way and when it passed us, I wondered if it was one of those used in the tour. If it was, we were doomed. It could only mean that the road we were following would stretch for 21km.

We had been walking for about half an hour by then. There were no other people. There weren't even signs saying that it was the way to Penanjakan. We contemplated on going back to ask for directions but that would mean we might not be able to catch the sunrise. Undecided, we continued walking, hoping that the road would take us to the place we wanted to go before it gets light.

The road started to climb steeply, winding on the slope. After scaling Merapi, it should be very easy for us. But we were drained. Our last food was our lunch the previous day. After the long journey from Yogyakarta, all we really wanted was to lie down when we got there.

Gunung Batok, Bromo and Semeru at the far end.

Since we didn't want to take the jeep tour, we just paid for the transportation from Yogyakarta to Cemoro Lawang. It was comfortable enough but still tiring due to the long drive. It took us more than 12 hours to get there. We stopped at the office of the tour agency when we got to Probolinggo and changed a van. They also explained the itinerary of the jeep tour and told us that if we want to join, we should buy there because it would be more expensive if we buy the tour in Cemoro Lawang. But we still stuck to our plan.

Our search for a place to spend the night took us to the checkpoint where tickets are also issued. We were taken aback when we found out that we had to pay 213,000 IDR. We didn't expect that amount, because while doing research, it was never mentioned so we thought it wouldn't be significant. (Later on I found out that the government raised the entrance fees to several sites just a couple of months before we visited Indonesia.)

Eye-catching Gunung Batok amidst the Sea of Sand. Patches of golden-brown grass make the plain interesting.

After unwillingly paying the said amount, we turned back and went to Cafe Lava Guesthouse to see if they could still accommodate us. They couldn't, but one man volunteered to take us to a nearby homestay. Upon realizing that we weren't joining a tour, he gave us a map and explained to us how we could get to the viewpoint. From him, we found out that tickets aren’t needed if we don’t enter the national park. And the viewpoint in Penanjakan wasn't part of the park.

Upon the man's suggestion, I went back to the checkpoint and asked if we could get our money back since we really just wanted to hike up to the viewpoint and not to Bromo. They said they wouldn't do that. I insisted, begged a little, but to no avail. One man added that there would be rangers on the way to the viewpoint to check if we have tickets and that even Cemoro Lawang is part of the national park and we need tickets just to be in the village. That couldn't be. But there was nothing I could do. So once we got to our room, I went to the guesthouse where the other people in our van checked in to sell them our tickets. But all of them have theirs. I was a little too late.

The crater of Gunung Bromo.

Still climbing the steep road, we saw people in food stalls by the road. We finally confirmed that we were on the right track. We came across some men on horses which we thought were the rangers referred to until they asked us if we wanted to take a ride. We continued climbing until we reached a set of stairs which led to Seruni Point. There were already a few people. Without words, we unconsciously agreed that that is where we would watch the sunrise. (The peak of Penanjakan a.k.a. the viewpoint was still 30-45 minutes away. The trail is found to the right, just before entering the deck of Seruni Point.)

Watching as the sky magically gets painted, the astounding landscape that was obscured by the darkness starting to present itself to us, and the sun slowly creeping up the horizon, we knew that we made the right decision of sticking to our plan. They were the reward waiting for us. We made an effort and it felt that we deserved what we were witnessing.

What we thought would be a boring walk back to the homestay turned out to be as interesting (at least for us) as the volcanic landscape we just saw. With the cool breeze and the gentle sunlight both touching our skin and illuminating the tranquil beauty of the countryside, we both concluded that it didn't feel like Indonesia.

Since it was still early when we reached the village center and since we already have the tickets, we decided to just make use of them. As we descended to the Sea of Sand, we noticed the jeeps parked near the foot of Gunung Batok and the hundreds of people climbing the 250 steps to the rim of Bromo. Thank god we didn’t have to share to sunrise view with that very huge crowd.

At the foot of Bromo, there were men with horses offering rides from the jeep to the bottom of the stairs. By the time we got there, the crowd had thinned out. We climbed the stairs, stopping once or twice. There are side decks along the stairs for those who wanted a little rest so as not to slow down human traffic.

Bromo was constantly spewing out smoke and unfortunately, the wind was blowing to our direction so we didn't spend a long time at the rim. Beside Bromo is the eye-catching Batok, which all the time I supposed was Bromo. I only found out when I saw that people were climbing 'the other volcano' instead of that beautiful one.

We opted to take the ojek on the way back. Surprisingly, the first ojek driver that we saw (and who noticed us) was the same guy who was waiting when I stepped out of the homestay. He was there when we left the ticketing office, offering to take us to a homestay but we had to decline, twice. He followed us on the road to the viewpoint, saying with a worried look that the place is very far. He only left after a number of no’s. And then finally, he got what he wanted from us. Persistence pays.

indonesia travel hacks

Seeing Bromo on the cheap

If coming from Yogyakarta on the way to Bali, the cheapest way to see Bromo is buying an all-inclusive tour to the volcano. This includes transport from Yogyakarta to Cemoro Lawang and onwards to Denpasar, accommodation, breakfast and a jeep to get around the volcano. Because we preferred to use our feet and didn't want to get stuck inside a jeep, we only paid for the transportation to Cemoro Lawang. And although we ended up spending a lot more, we didn't regret our decision. (Story coming up soon.)

One thing to remember though is that there is a hefty entrance fee (213,000 IDR) to see the volcano up close. If you don't want to shell out this amount, you can just walk up to the viewpoint in Seruni Point or higher to the peak of Penanjakan where all the other tourists are, to admire the beautiful sunrise and see landscape with Gunung Bromo, Batok and Semeru. We were told that there are rangers going around those viewpoints checking if one has the entrance ticket, but there are actually none. Also, this isn't illegal because at least Seruni Point and the other viewpoint below the peak of Penanjakan aren't part of the national park and you don't have to pay to be there.

The only downside of not paying is that you cannot climb to the crater of Bromo. But honestly, there isn't anything special about its crater. It's just another crater spewing volcanic gasses non-stop. We found that the walk from Seruni Point back to the village under the early morning sun was more exciting than being at the rim of Bromo.

When in Yogya, maximize the use of Trans Jogja

Trans Jogja is a Bus Rapid Transport (BRT) system which operates in the city of Yogyakarta. The cost of single-trip ticket is fixed at 3,000 IDR which is fairly cheap. It won't matter how near or far your destination is, or how many bus transfers you have to make. You will only have to pay the said amount.

The staff in the bus stations are very helpful, showing us which route to take and telling us when the bus we need to get into arrives.

The only problem with the Trans Jogja is that you might need to wait a long time for the right bus. We left for Prambanan at 2 in the afternoon and didn't get there until 4. So when using this service, allot ample travelling time especially when there would be several bus transfers.

Borobudur and Prambanan on the cheap

Yes, the entrance fees are a little too steep and no, you can't get away with it if you really want to see these temples. But there is a way to save a little when visiting these temples.

Ask for the combination ticket. It exists although it isn't advertised at the ticket counters. It only costs 360,000 IDR, saving you about 8 dollars. And it is valid for two days.

Another way to save when visiting these temples is using the public transport to get there. Prambanan is just across the terminal (called Prambanan Terminal). If coming from Malioboro, this route is served by Line 1A. To get to Borobudur, take Line 3A, get off at the terminal and take a bus to Borobudur. The entrance to the temple is about 10 minutes' walk from the terminal.

Eat at warungs

Local restaurants in Indonesia are called warung. They serve cheap but tasty local food and their serving is huge.

In Ubud, around the Monkey Forest Road area, we found that the warungs located there weren't really geared for the locals but for tourists. They aren't as cheap but compared to other restaurants in the area, they still are cheap. The warung near the southern end of Guotama street was particularly good. We also noticed that there are restaurants called warung but they are actually in the midrange to high-end budget.

Accommodation in Ubud

Knowing that we may reach Ubud late, we had a guesthouse booked for us before we left Yogyakarta. But we didn't expect that we will reach Denpasar at almost midnight, when public transport to Ubud was impossible. And a hired car was way out of our budget. So we ended up spending a night in the city instead.

The following morning, we took a bemo to Ubud and asked to be dropped along Monkey Forest Road. The LP guidebook lists a few homestays and we walked to the nearest one. We were greeted by an old lady and showed us a room. Actually, it wasn't a room. It was more like a pretty two-storey villa, which looked fairly new by the way. And the bed had lace draped over it. How romantic. Considering its price, which is just 300,000 IDR, it was an easy bargain. But again, it was out of our budget. So the old woman just led us to another homestay across the street.

Since all the rooms in that particular homestay only have double beds, we opted to stay there for just a night and find another one later that day. Walking around, we discovered that homestays abound. The term homestay must be a misnomer in Ubud because the rooms aren't really part of a house. In general, homestays are compounds with several buildings surrounding a garden. The family manages and lives in the compound, but guests don't necessarily live with them, which is the essence of a homestay. Anyway, the cheapest rooms which accommodate two persons cost 150,000 IDR. It seemed like every street has at least one homestay. So there really isn't a need to worry about accommodations in Ubud (except maybe when it's the peak season). Just be sure to check the room first because at the same price, standard pretty much vary.

The airport tax

Thinking on spending your last Rupiah on souvenirs before leaving Indonesia? Hold on first. There is an airport tax which must be paid by all departing passengers, without exception. The cost varies depending on the airport or if it is an international or domestic flight. In Surabaya, I paid 200,000 IDR for my flight out of Indonesia. Generally, the smaller the airport, the cheaper the airport tax you would have to pay. (Here's a helpful link to know how much you should pay.)

*The only country that does not include the airport tax in the ticket cost, aside from Indonesia, is the Philippines.

Know your local public transport

So you were instructed to take a bemo to get to your hostel and hire either an ojek or becak to get around the city. Are your eyebrows in furrow wondering what those are?

A bemo is a mini bus which runs a certain route and shared with other passengers. All the bemos I have taken in Bali are very old and beat up. (I mean really, you'd wonder how it is still running.) Some bemo could also be hired and function as a taxi. The fare is fixed, but prepared to get ripped off.

An ojek is simply a motorcycle which you can flag down anywhere and can take you anywhere you want to.

A becak is a three-wheel vehicle. In Java, the driver sits at the back and two (average sized) passengers can fit in the carriage in the front. The becak is either pedal-powered (more common) or motorized. This is a nice, slow way to get around the city. Although we found it a little too pricey for our budget.

The following aren't just applicable to travelling in Indonesia, but to any place one would go.

Have an idea of how much you should pay for something

When we took the mini-bus to Borobudur, we knew that we only had to pay 15,000 IDR each. But when we were about to pay, we were asked to give 35,000 IDR each. We still gave that amount, hoping that we heard it wrong and the excess money would be given back to us. But the collector left instantly upon receiving our money.

Feeling cheated, we asked the other tourists how much they paid. One couple paid 25,000 while the other gave 15,000. We really wanted our money back so once we arrived at the terminal and all the other passengers have alighted, we approached the collector and told him that what we gave him was too much. We were expecting that we would have a hard time doing so. But to our surprise, the collector gave us back the 40,000 without even a slight hesitation.

Haggle hard (if you can) and accept that you'll get ripped off

Here's the thing. You'll get ripped off no matter what, every time you travel. Sometimes you'll know about it which will make you feel bad or angry and in others, you'll have no idea you're shelling out more than you should.

From Batubulan terminal in Denpasar, we took a bemo to Ubud. Our old LP guidebook said the fare should be about 6,000 IDR and to allot for inflation, we thought we'll be asked for 15-20,000 IDR. To our surprise, the dispatcher said that the fare is 35,000. We went to what looked like an office and asked how much the fare to Ubud is but they didn't seem to know the answer. A man outside was telling them 35,000 and that's what they told us. It turned out that the man was the bemo driver.

Since we had no other choice, and taxi would be more expensive, we agreed and the dispatcher said that we'll just have to wait for more passengers. (Tip: Go to the terminal earlier when there are more bemos and passengers.) But only three came, and they were only going halfway.  So he asked for more money, or we'll wait more. In the end, we paid 85,000 for the two of us, thinking that there'd be no other passengers. Once the bemo got out of the terminal, the driver picked up more passengers. That wasn't what we were expecting.

A few days later, I was back at that terminal. The same dispatcher greeted me impishly and asked where I was going. I needed to go to Ubung terminal to catch a bus to Banyuwangi. I knew that the price he told me was just too much and I said I refuse to pay that amount. We had a little argument and after realizing that I wouldn't win anyway, I just ignored him. I was standing there wondering why I even argued when the driver called my attention. He took me to the terminal with the price that was acceptable to both of us.

kawah ijen: the blue flame, the sulfur miners and the search for sunrise

If you ever find yourself in Indonesia searching for something unique to see in the country, go hike to the crater of Ijen. Do this walk under the stars and you'll be rewarded with such a rare phenomenon.

In the eastern part of Java lies Kawah Ijen, a volcano which should be known for two things - its lake which contains a very acidic water and the display of blue flames. Gases constantly emitted by the volcano reacts with the water, forming hydrochloric acid. This gives the lake its green color and a pH close to 0. To top it off, a very strange event could be observed in the crater which is known as the blue flame. The blue flame, which looks like lava flowing out of volcanic fissures, are actually produced from sulfuric gases which ignite once they come in contact with air. (Read on.)

A few days before I went to see Ijen, I was at an office of a tour agency in Probolinggo waiting for our ride to Bali. A guy working for the agency asked me if I was interested in doing a tour to Ijen and I said of course, I was. He quoted me 500,000 IDR and although I was expecting the price to be that much, I still said that it was too expensive and I couldn't afford it.  He offered a 'special price' which was 100,000 IDR cheaper and maybe if I didn't feel like I was robbed by Bromo that day, I would have grabbed his offer.

There are two ways to get to Ijen. The more popular one is via Bondowoso but I find it more complicated with lots of vehicle transfers and thus more time consuming. Since I was coming from Bali, I took the more direct route from Banyuwangi. From there, it was less than an hour's drive by private vehicle to Pos Paltuding, the starting point of the trek to the crater.

Wondering how I got to Ijen on a tight budget? I got lucky.

I booked a room at the only accommodation listed in Hostelbookers. And although it wasn't something to write about and it was very much a little out of the way, a couple was also going to Ijen that day and we split the 450,000 IDR rent for a mini van. Some say that the road to Pos Paltuding is in a bad state and that a 4x4 is needed. This isn't true. Although the road gets really steep, it's completely paved.

At about 2 in the morning, we started walking to the crater. At first, it seemed like there were only the three of us. Later on, we caught up with a large group of tourists and men who turned out to be sulfur miners. A guide wasn't really necessary because the path was very obvious, even in the dark. And when confused, I just waited for the other people to pass me and then follow their track.

At some point during the hike, I could get a whiff of the sulfur when the wind blew to our direction. As we got nearer to the crater, the sulfuric gases lingered in the air causing discomfort. When the group of guys in front of me took out their industrial grade masks, I got envious. All I had was my headwear made of thin material to cover my nose and it was barely enough. The miners weren't using any. I guess you'll get used to it with time.

Upon reaching the rim of Ijen, we were greeted with a big signpost telling us that descending to the crater is strictly prohibited. Those ahead of me didn't seem to mind the warning and went on their way passing through a gate which I think never got locked. I overheard a few saying that they would only go down with their guides. I observed for a moment. Looking down, I saw the blue flames. It was the reason why I was there at that hour and I had to see them up close.

The trail to the bottom of the crater was harder to tackle than the path we took to get to the rim. The steps which are carved from the rocks on the slope are mostly uneven. But since it's used by the miners who carry a very heavy load, it can't be that difficult. In any case, some of the miners moonlight as guides for a fee. Sometimes the trail gets too narrow and we always gave way to the miners going up carrying sulfur. Once or twice, I got confused which path to take. I still acted as if I knew what I was doing to avoid the awkward situation where I'll be asked if I needed a guide and I still haven't learned how to gracefully say no. But the miners were just kind enough to show me the right path to take, even without me asking.

So what's so special about the blue flame aside from being a very rare occurrence? I'm not sure. Well, strange is beautiful. And the feeling of seeing something you haven't seen before and will probably never see again - that's special.

I tried to get as close as I could to the flames. And although the spot is practically covered with smoke, I lingered as long as I could to marvel at this rarity. Amidst the smoke, I saw a silhouette moving around. It turned out to be one of the miners gathering sulfur. I didn't know how he could stay there for long. I only hoped that he had the proper mask on.

The miners have been gathering sulfur from Ijen for decades now. It's hard to believe that they carry loads of up to 90 kilograms on foot, everyday, up to the rim and down to the station where they get paid. It is indeed a very taxing job. Backbreaking. Literally. I've only seen a few who are wearing the proper protective equipment. Their health are jeopardized because they are regularly exposed to dangerous gases every time they go down the crater. They might be getting more money mining sulfur rather than doing any other job available, but when the danger and the possible long-term effects inhaling those toxic gases are factored in, they are getting the short end of the stick.

Once I got my fix of the blue flame (and when I couldn't bear the smoke anymore) I started to make my way back up to be able to see the sunrise. When I got there, I came across several people who has just arrived and wondered if they were there primarily to see the blue flame. Going down, I heard the girl ahead of me asking her guide why the flames could only be seen at night. Self-explanatory. Dawn was already approaching. I just hoped they made it on time to be able to see the flames. As for me, I decided to walk along the crater rim to find a spot where I could watch the sunrise. I spotted a small group and was told that at that time of the year, the sun would be blocked by a portion of the volcano.

I didn't want to stop there though. I just didn't know where to go. I looked around, walked a little and found that there was a trail amidst the bush, going along the crater rim. I followed the trail, sidetracking to the edge a few times to catch a glimpse of the lake but most of the time, the view was concealed with smoke. I continued walking as the sky started to change its colors. I wasn't going to get the sunrise view I was hoping for but it was still beautiful.

I stopped by an abandoned remains of a building where there was an instrument set-up. I'm guessing it's being used to monitor the volcano's activity. (I may be wrong, though.) I had the place all to myself for quite some time, watching as dawn breaks and enjoying the stillness. Until a few people started coming. I felt a little selfish and I didn't want them to be there. But there was nothing I could do.

On the way down, I saw more and more people going up to the crater. They've missed the blue flame. They probably aren't aware of it or maybe just not as interested. Maybe the views are much clearer and as beautiful during the day? Maybe.

the tuol sleng genocide museum

It was the morning of Christmas Eve. The air was warm but still pleasant. At the back of a speeding tuk-tuk, the gust of cool breeze was more refreshing. Our driver was quiet most of the time and only broke his silence when he shared about his fascination with Filipino actors and the soap operas they are in. He is a fan of Marian Rivera and Ding Dong Dantes. And even Coco Martin. The entertaining conversation was a distraction to what we were about to experience.

The tuk-tuk came to a halt. We stepped down and walked towards a small building where we bought our tickets. Welcome to Tuol Sleng, more commonly known as S21. Once a public high school, the place was turned into a security prison during the reign of the Khmer Rouge. Today, S21 has been transformed into a museum letting everyone know about the horrific past of Cambodia.

From 1975 to 1979, Cambodia was ruled by the Khmer Rouge, a radical communist movement. They wanted to transform Cambodia into a rural, classless society. They abolished money, free markets, normal schooling, private property, foreign clothing styles, religious practices and traditional Khmer culture. They arrested and killed soldiers, officers and civil servants of the previous Khmer Republic. Educated people and those accused of being a traitor were imprisoned and executed. By the end of their rule, more than a million people has died under the regime.

Displayed near the entrance of the museum was the list of rules imposed upon every prisoner. It seemed like the 10 Commandments, only it wasn't bestowed by a loving god but inflicted by ruthless god-playing fiends. Basically, it says that the prisoner must follow everything he is told to do without hesitation. Going against the rules warrants punishment of either lashing with electric wires or electrocution. And while being punished, a prisoner is not allowed to cry. Prisoners were denied of being human.

We were brought into a room. With all the stains, it was difficult to make out the color the walls were originally painted with. There was nothing in the room except for a rusty metal bed frame with a sign saying “Do not touch!” A shackle lies on the bed. On the left wall hangs a black-and-white picture of that same room. But at that time when the photograph was taken, the bed wasn't empty. A dead body was lying on the bed, the shackle binding her arm, and a large pool of blood was flooding beneath. She was one of the 14 corpses discovered in S21 by the Liberation Army.

Our guide led us to the next three-storey building, whose corridors are fenced with barbed wires. Desperate prisoners who would rather die than prolong their suffering jumped from the building. But the Khmer Rouge didn’t like it. The lives of their prisoners must lie on their hands. They must have complete control over the prisoners. So the wires were put in place. Even the prisoners’ right to death were denied from them.

Inside, the rooms are filled with photographs. There are rooms dedicated to the powers behind the genocide. Hundreds of photos of soldiers were also on display. Same goes with the prisoners. Our guide’s English was heavily accented so I had to ask him to make it clear if the photos of the young boys and girls were prisoners or soldiers. It was hard to believe when he said they were soldiers. Some of them looked like they were just half my age. It was more difficult to imagine how they have felt when they had to inflict pain to or kill their fellows. Did they ever feel remorse? Or had they stopped feeling? But soldier or prisoner they may be, all of them seemed to have this chilling look in their eyes.

The next hall where we were led contained more photos. There were also crude paintings of how prisoners were tortured, and the actual instruments used to perform the act were displayed. Hearing the stories of what happened to all those people could stir a lot of emotions. But seeing the photos of the people who perished in that prison gave a heavier, darker feeling. The woman beside me couldn't help her tears from falling. Because there could be no denying that it happened. They were real people. And with each photo, they seemed to be asking why they had to go through that misery.

I wandered on my own around the upper floors of the buildings. At the second floor were rooms with wooden cells for each prisoner while the third floor rooms were used for mass detention.. I imagine looking at the small opening of a cell door and seeing a prisoner lying on the cold bare floor, his body curled to a fetal position, his clothes in tatters, terrified, in pain and wishing for death to come fast.

The rooms were particularly dim, with only a limited amount of light entering the openings which were left uncovered. It seemed like the dimness was trying to obscure the traces of what happened in the past. But it only brought out the darkness the once perpetuated in these rooms. The silence echoed the reverberating sound of agony and the stillness belied the cruelty that reigned the place.

Out of the thousands of people who were detained in S21, only a handful survived. They escaped execution because of their skills which Khmer Rouge soldiers thought were useful to them. Two of the survivors were there during our visit. If it's difficult to imagine the sufferings people endured, I think it is harder to fathom where they got the strength to continue living despite losing every person who were important to them.

to the temple of the moon and back: machu picchu, huayna picchu and la gran caverna

The view of Machu Picchu from Huayna Picchu.

"Is this it?" I asked rhetorically although I never meant for anyone to hear what I said.

"Well, let's hope it's not," said the guy in front of me, whom I didn't know but I had been 'adopted' in their group since we left Huayna Picchu.

Going to the temple of the moon wasn't actually part of the plan. I was at an office in Aguas Calientes considering which type of entrance ticket to Machu Picchu I should buy. Hiking up to Huayna Picchu, that big mountain that serves as the backdrop of those classic Machu Picchu photos, was highly recommended. I've never heard of Machu Picchu Mountain and was curious about it. And the ticket that only allows access to the main ruins was definitely cheaper. The guy behind the counter answered me in an annoyed tone when I asked him if it was possible to visit both Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain. He gave me a gruff no. In the end, I chose the ticket with Huayna Picchu and was told to be there before seven in the morning.

Machu Picchu in the early morning.

So there I was the next day, marveling at the view of Machu Picchu from the other side, where not everyone choose to go. I was rendered breathless by the beauty in front of me but mostly by the tough journey. It wasn't that easy to get there. It takes about an hour to reach the top of Huayna Picchu. The trail was a very steep, vertigo-inducing climb up hundreds of steps. Thankfully, they installed cables and railings to help the visitors climb and also for safety.

I hate that I don't recall how I made my way to the top of the mountain. Or maybe it was my brain's way of making me forget that terrifying ordeal. My memory would jump from taking photos of Machu Picchu from a viewpoint just at the foot of the ruins at the top of Huayna Picchu to that guy who told me that I had to either crawl beneath or climb over a huge rock. Then I was eating biscuits and drinking coke while seated at the backside because the best spot was already taken. Although only a maximum of 200 people are allowed at one time, the area was too small that it seemed very crowded.

Huayna Picchu

Technically speaking, eating is not allowed inside Machu Picchu. But I was so hungry because I haven't eaten anything that day so I broke the rule. I left the hostel in Aguas Calientes at about half past four at dawn. Instead of taking the bus, I chose to walk up to Machu Picchu in order to save a few dollars. I didn't expect it but there was about a hundred other people lining up for the walk. Again, it was a steep, one-hour climb to the entrance. But being there very early has a reward of seeing the place bathed with mist, giving it a magical feel. After taking a few shots, I rushed to the other side and joined the queue for the first group to Huayna Picchu. By the time I got to the top, I have already climbed more than 700m and it was just eight in the morning. And I wasn't prepared.

Moments later, I stood up from where I was munching, not sure what direction I wanted to take. At the checkpoint for Huayna Picchu, I snapped a photo of this poster showing other ruins that can be visited. Gran Caverna sounded interesting although it was located at the far side of the mountain. I followed the trail going to Gran Caverna and came across some people who were going back. I wasn't really keen on going. I was merely looking around.

I kept on walking a little more and saw this group of two guys and a girl. They were probably as undecided where to go as I was that time. The first thing she asked me was if I speak English. Uh-huh. And then if I knew where the trail was leading. It told her it said Gran Caverna and I had no idea what it was. I showed her the photo of the poster, even though the only information printed in it was the elevation and average walking time. Gran Caverna was even 200m lower than Machu Picchu itself. She asked if I was going. I just looked at her and smiled.

La Gran Caverna. No intiendo por que esto se llama gran. 

It has been an hour since we started the descent. The trail was steep but it was mostly steps carved on the slope. My knees were already aching and there wasn't even a  nice view to compensate for the pain. We were traversing a forest. At one point, the steps vanished and we had to climb down a long wooden ladder. I opted to go last and received an applause once I got down. It was THAT difficult, I guess. We continued walking until we reached a structure which could pass as a ruin, with plants clinging to or growing in it. Two teenage-looking boys were taking turns in taking pictures of each other on that spot. I got confused. That's what was waiting for us after all the difficulties we had to go through? And that was when I found myself asking that question: Is this it?

A few steps more and we saw an older couple sitting just outside a 'cave'. So that was really it. I entered, but only to sit and rest. The Temple of the Moon people are talking about, I inferred, was inside the Gran Caverna. Or maybe it was the same thing? It is little visited and there's very scant information about it. And the cave actually doesn't live up to its name. Grand.

Narrow trail and sheer drop. What more could you ask for?

We left after resting and shooting a few photos. Since we were descending most of the time to the cave, we had to go up on the way back. And it was also very steep. My knees started to hurt again and I told the girl that she could go ahead of me if she wanted to. She was so nice and chose to wait for me. Further ahead, the trail opened to the side of the mountain, giving us a grand view of Rio Urubamba. The trail was narrow with sheer drop to the valley floor but good thing was that there was railings. When we rejoined the main trail, we came across the second group of people who were going to the top of Huayna Picchu.

I never get to know those three who were the reason why I got to reach that part of the mountain, where I wouldn't go alone. But we shared some hair-raising adventure. We surely weren't impressed with Gran Caverna. But as always, it's not about the destination. And it gave me a story to tell. And if someone would ask me if I would recommend it, I'll tell him to just go and have some adventure.

Cliché lessons on climbing Mt. Apo

The so-called 87 degrees

There will be bumps

Just like any other special day that one waits and longs for, our rendezvous with Mount Apo wasn’t without bumps. In fact, it was met with lots.

I almost missed my flight to Manila, which meant I would also miss the flight to Davao. J missed her flight back to work and had to pay for another ticket, so she was a little reluctant to spend more for the climb. The doctor wouldn't give a medical clearance to R while Y and L almost ran out of time getting the results of their medical exams. Y had to be at a conference on the day of our departure to Davao. And the night before the climb, there was news of an encounter between the government troops and rebels somewhere in the vicinity of the mountain. Concerned people advised us not to go anymore.

But with persistence, everything was smoothed out. And fortunately, the encounter was nowhere nearby the trail we were taking so it was safe to climb.

Enjoy the ride

From the city, we boarded a bus to Digos. At the Digos-Kapatagan Road, we had to take habal-habal to the jump-off point at Sitio Baruring. The ride itself was already an adventure. Y and I rode together, with our backpacks propped up on each side of the motorcycle. I was sitting at the back and had nowhere to rest my feet. Throughout the journey, my legs were stretched, almost to their limit. Twice, when the motorcycle had to turn on curves, my left foot rubbed against the road. And at one point while we were on a steep descent, we kept on sliding to the front. Y was already almost standing to avoid sitting on my thigh because I have slid to her seat. Instead of getting fumed with our situation, we just laughed thinking about how funny we looked. We laughed so hard the driver got confused about what was happening behind him.

Have at least a Plan B. And be flexible

Our climb organizer, Albert, assigned the Kapatagan trail for us. It was the shortest trail, taking only three days. On the first day, we were only supposed to climb to Tinikaran Camp, summit on the next and spending the night at the summit camp and descend on the final day. Our flight was scheduled on the night of the last day and Albert was a little worried that we might miss it, with possible horrible traffic on the way back to the city due to some ongoing road constructions.

We followed the itinerary for the first day. But instead of camping near the summit on the second day, we climbed to the peak of Mt. Apo with only our packed lunch, water and some trail food. We spent the night in the same place so that for the third day, we had less distance to cover on the way down.

Just do it

I know some people will be frowning at us for not doing enough physical preparation for the climb. We are well aware that climbing is a serious matter, but we just couldn't make time out from our jobs and studies. We only had time to play badminton for an hour in the afternoon and we knew it was barely enough.

We could have opted to postpone our trip until we're already prepared. But we really wanted to climb on Valentine's Day. And besides, we didn't know when everyone of us would be available. So we went ahead.

The boulders trail.

When the going gets tough, the tough gets going

Yep, we weren't prepared. So we had to pay the price. Even during the start of the trek, when the terrain was still rolling, we were already languishing, lagging behind our guides. So imagine our faces when we saw the steep slopes we had to climb once we entered the mossy forest.

Aside from the steep climb, the ground was wet and at times muddy and slippery. Climbing was also like an obstacle course due to the many dead tree trunks blocking the trail. We either had to climb over or go under those trunks to get through. When we reached the camp, we were so tired that we just sat there and didn't assist our guides in setting up.

On the second day, it was the same at the first part of the trail, with slippery slopes in the forest, although it seemed much steeper. Once we got out of the forest, we were greeted by huge boulders and the smell of rotting eggs due to a nearby solfatara. While we were climbing the boulders, the wind would sometimes blow to our direction, carrying with it the volcanic gases. My eyes would hurt a little when that happened.

I might have an advantage over the others with my long legs, making it easier for me to hop from one boulder to another. So I asked our guide if it was okay for me to go ahead. He gave me the go signal. Following the poles with yellow ribbons serving as trail marks, I reached a flatter area near the foot of '87 degrees' and decided to wait for the rest of the group. I passed time picking more wild berries which I had been nibbling since early in the morning.

They arrived in no time and we had our lunch before going to the peak. The '87 degrees' looked really steep. And while staring at it, I was wondering if they were kidding us when they said that it was the way to the summit. Apparently, they were serious. I found out while climbing that it wasn't actually as difficult as it looked. And all of us reached the summit, after six hours.

Our group may be slow, but we never stopped. And we made it.

Hold on to the things that matter

We started our summit assault at half past seven in the morning. We've already walked for about 10 minutes when I realized that I forgot Ngyaw in our tent. I had to go back. Even if I get to the summit, my experience wouldn't be complete without the cat.

The cat at the peak of Mt. Apo.

When I rejoined the group, it was Roy, our guide who then started going back to the camp. He may have realized that our group moves tremendously slow and it might already be dark when we get back. We didn't bring our headlamps with us because we thought that without our heavy backpacks, the climb will be easier.

But Roy's intuition and assessment of our group was right. He may never admit it, but we're probably the slowest group that he has accompanied in the mountain. It took us six hours just to reach the summit. And although we were much faster going down, it was already evening when we reached the camp. Good thing Roy thought of getting our headlamps that we didn't think of bringing.

On the way up, he told us stories of couples who ended up fighting while climbing the mountain. Apparently, there were some guys who don't know how to be a gentleman. Or whose only goal was to reach the peak, with or without their girl. Or those who acted more girly than their girlfriends.

Guys, hold on to the things that matter.

Actually, what I really meant was on very steep slopes, hold on to the trees, their roots, the stems, those things. Use them to pull yourself up and to prevent you from slipping. Our late afternoon badminton games, it seemed, was not without use.

You can’t get everything you want. But still count your blessings

One of the things I look forward to when climbing mountains is being able to watch the sunset and/or sunrise from the peak. Since we had to change our itinerary, we would be at the peak in the early afternoon. That was okay, we would have a grand view at the peak right? Wrong. It was too cloudy that we couldn't see anything from the top.

Going down. The clouds decided to part for a moment to give us a glimpse of the landscape.

Our guide told us that the mountains get covered with clouds if the climbers make a lot of noise. So we kept our mouths shut, hoping that the views would clear up. Every time someone made a sound, she would be shh-ed. We waited. And waited. And waited a little more. Until it was time to leave because it was still a long way down and it was getting late.

Was I disappointed? Definitely not a bit. Despite the clouds and the slight drizzle during the first day, it didn't rain while we were walking. We got there and back safely. And most of all, we accomplished our main goal, which is to reach the peak of Mt. Apo.

But still, I want to go back. For the sunrise. For the sunset. Some guys have proposed to their significant other at the peak of Mt. Apo. To my future special someone (if ever you exist), there's an idea.

What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger

We were running out of drinking water on our way back to the camp from the summit. It was still a long way down. Our guide asked us if we wanted water. We said yes and he started climbing a huge boulder. It rained the night before and puddles of water accumulated on depressions on top of rocks.

We were a little hesitant to drink it, fearing for our stomach. But we were also thirsty. The water tasted like a much diluted iced tea. It wasn't that bad. And no one got sick.

Eat the berries

Okay, it’s obviously not a life lesson. But yes, try the wild berries that are scattered in the boulders area. But avoid eating those that are near the solfatara.

paragliding in pokhara

“Look Em! That’s Macch....”

“Macch....pucch...re..?”

My friend and I were both having a hard time at pronouncing the name of that prominent peak. Machhapuchhre's (literally Fish Tail) two summits resemble the tail of a fish, hence its name. I have been in Pokhara for three days already but that was the first time that I saw the mountains. I was somewhere in there just a week ago.

At half past eleven in the morning, we were in a jeep on the way to Sarangkot. It was supposed to be the best time to do paragliding, when the sun has been out long enough for the thermals to develop.

We stopped where there was a group of some men. Apparently, there was a little accident that morning. One guy was accidentally carried by a paraglider. He was able to hold on to a tree though so he didn't get carried all the way. That was how I understood it though I really couldn’t picture the event on my mind.

“Is it your first time? How are you feeling?”

“Yes. I am a little nervous. And afraid.”

We were walking to the jump-off area when the guard started yelling at us in Nepali. He wanted everyone to stay on the sides except for those who we ready to take off. The guard, well everyone, didn't want another incident for that day. Except perhaps for the driver of our jeep who probably has a death wish. Who cares about blind curves?

“So how long have you been doing this? How many times have you flown?”

“Thousands. I actually stopped counting eight years ago.”

That’s a little reassuring. But maybe I should have asked if he’d had any accident before. My pilot started strapping the harness on me.

“Em, I only need you to do something for me at the start. When I say walk, you walk. When I say run, you run. Okay?”

“Okay. But are you a hundred percent sure I am securely strapped to you?”

I couldn't really see what was happening behind me. I imagine the assistant was flying a very big kite. We were his kite. My pilot and I were moving, more like swaying, as the wing moved over us. I struggled a little following the movement. And then I was told to run. I ran until my feet lifted from the ground. We were soaring.

I let out a little shriek. What are you supposed to do when you couldn’t feel the ground anymore? But instead of a strong thumping in my chest, all I could feel at that moment was peace. It was quiet. And I was comfortably seated while my pilot maneuvers the wing.  There was no extreme emotion that warrants a scream. So I stayed silent.

“What is that beeping sound?”

“It’s a variometer It will keep on beeping as long as we are going up.”

We caught the thermal in no time. The sound kept on going. We were circling the thermal as we go higher. And it’s a little dizzying. I saw several more people away from us. From our location, it seemed like everyone were congregating in there. They seemed too close to each other. I was wondering if collision was a possibility.

Colorful wing.

“How are you feeling now?”

“Esta bien!”

I wanted to make an impression on my Catalonian pilot. But those were the only words I could muster. Catalonia – I kept on seeing it amongst a list of several countries at a guesthouse in the Annapurna Circuit trek. I thought it was another country I had no idea of the location. So I immediately lumped it with Eastern Europe. But thanks to the teasing of the other pilot, I learned that it was part of Spain. And it has been fighting for independence for several centuries.

“Maybe you’ll get lucky in the next century?”

If he heard it, he didn't react.

“Look there!”

An eagle was flying nearby. I was one with the birds, sharing their place. And then a microlight aircraft passed in front of us. Things were really incredible up there.

Unfortunately, I started feeling a tightening in my stomach. Maybe I shouldn’t have had breakfast.

“Has anyone ever thrown up while you were flying?”

“Oh yeah, there was this guy who kept on throwing up but he insisted on doing the cross-country. He threw up a lot of times.”

The cross country takes about 45 minutes to an hour. Brave guy, poor pilot, I thought. My flight was supposed to take 20-30 minutes and it had already felt like forever.

“If you want to take pictures, don’t look at the screen. It will only make you dizzier. Point your camera anywhere and shoot. Just look at the pictures later.”

A view from the top of something beautiful makes it more amazing. I admired the vastness of the Phewa Lake. Pokhara was clinging to it. It was a little hazy but from a distance, the Annapurnas and Macchapucchre, some of the giants of the Himalayas, can be seen.

I followed everything that my pilot said. But every minute in the air made me feel worse.

“Has it been 30 minutes already? I’m feeling really bad now.”

“Not yet. We’ll go above the lake. It’s calmer there.”

I felt that my pilot didn’t want me to go down very soon. And I wanted to enjoy more the feeling of being up there. But my gut was saying otherwise. Even after leaving the thermals and just hovering above the lake, I still felt like I would throw up anytime if I didn’t get back to the ground.

“Um, I’d like to go down now.”

“Are you sure?”

My gut was sure.

I was just so glad once we landed. Of course, I loved the feeling of being suspended in the air. I just did paragliding and finally able to tick off one more in my bucket list. But it seemed like I am better off being grounded. I mean, I’ve reached altitudes (5000+m) where one is prone to sickness, feeling dizzy, getting headaches and I had none of those. Maybe my body prefers that my feet (or the sole of my shoes) are always touching something solid as they go higher.

So would I do it again? Only if it’s free, I guess.

hiking with an umbrella: gulugod baboy

View from the top.

Gulugod Baboy - close to Manila, very easy to climb in less than two hours and also good for beginners, the chance to explore a nearby island and the beach in the same day, superb view at the top - just a few reasons why many hikers choose this mountain.

We were just supposed to be a group of five geologists but the evening before the climb, I mentioned our plan to my friend Kirstie and she decided to come without much thought. Her only past hiking experience was in Mount Pinatubo and since Gulugod Baboy is recommended for first time hikers, I was confident that she would make it.

We were at the bus station in Cubao before 5am. We intended to do the hike in the morning and just lounge on the beach in the afternoon. But it must be that it was the week before Semana Santa and there were so many people going to Batangas. We were only able to board the bus after more than two hours. Add to that the horrible traffic in the city and even in Batangas and we reached Anilao at past 11, while some other groups were already on their way down.

Blood pressure check for only 8 pesos. Photo by R. Escanlar.

Since it was almost noon, we had our lunch and halo-halo, some gratification before the suffering (from too much heat). We had no idea about the registration fee, but apparently everyone who wants to climb Gulugod Baboy must pay 30 Pesos. The trail starts at the road just across the Philpan Diving Resort in Anilao. It's mostly cemented road and farther up there were some more concreting works. The sun was so high up and it was so hot that I really had to use my umbrella. Yup, no shame in there.

The first part of the actual trail was very steep. We were done tackling that steep part when Kirstie started feeling bad inside her. I had to go down with her and on the way I thought how funny it would be if I didn't make it. It was only 1pm but with our pace, I didn't know how long it would take us. I've scaled Mt. Apo but not Gulugod Baboy. Haha.

Thankfully, Kirstie was better after a few minutes. But we had to climb the very steep part again. She kept on telling me that she didn't have the energy to walk anymore and I just kept on encouraging her. That was the only thing I could do. There were still some houses on the way with make-shift benches under the shade and we rested there for several minutes. We actually had plenty of extended stops but with perseverance, we eventually made it to the top in less than two hours.

Photo by R. Escanlar.

Now, I still don't see the shape of the pig's spine that the ridge is supposed to resemble, giving it its name. Even when my friend explained it to me, I still didn't get it. My imaginative mind wasn't at its best that time. 

Trees were scarce at the top. But the wind was continuously blowing so the heat didn't bother us anymore. We spent more than an hour there, just feeling the wind, basking in the sun, admiring the view and taking tons of pictures. On the way down, we came across a large group who will be spending the night. They must have had a splendid view of the sunset.

We still enjoyed a beautiful sunset.

While on the bus going back to Manila, I realized that it wouldn't really bother me even if I didn't make it to Gulugod Baboy. At least I learned from that experience that my longtime belief was so wrong. There is no town named Anilao. It is just a barangay in the town of Mabini. Okay, and more importantly, I encouraged a friend to engage in outdoor activities.

How we got there and back: We took a bus at EDSA Cubao to Batangas City terminal. We then transferred to a jeep going to Mabini. Since there were six of us, the driver agreed to take us directly to Philpan resort for 100 pesos each. Going back, we took a tricycle going to the jeepney stop. There were still tricycles even at six in the evening. The jeepney dropped us at a junction where we had to take a short tricycle ride to the terminal.

trekking the annapurna circuit

Why trek the Annapurna Circuit?

Or why trek in Nepal in general?

I may be a big fan of the outdoors but I am not too enthusiastic about camping. All the hassle of setting up camp and preparing meals after several exhausting hours of walking just don’t appeal to me. So when I learned about the teahouse trekking in Nepal, I knew I had found my cup of tea.

The other remarkable characteristic of the Annapurna circuit is the varying environment one goes through. It starts at lower elevations where the trails pass through semi-tropical forests. Day by day, the surroundings change from pine forests, shrub lands, some meadows, to almost desert-like environment. And you don’t get to see the tall mountains the Himalayas are famed for until after several days of trekking.

Trekking in Nepal shows you a glimpse of people’s daily lives. It also gives you a chance to interact with local people because many guesthouses are family run. Along the trail or the road, you’ll come across caravans, people and herd of animals transporting goods from one village to another, which is how things have been going on in that place for so many years.

When to go

Fall and spring bring the most number of trekkers to the circuit because they offer the best weather. Since I could only go at late February, I had to google how it will be like during that time of the year. Unfortunately, there wasn't any reassuring answer. I had to experience it myself in order to know.

The first three days were still warm enough. But the nights were absolutely cold especially from Ghyaru down to Kalopani at the other side of the pass. It rained twice, but only for a moment. Snow was the biggest concern and it did snow a lot by the time we got to Manang until the night before we crossed the pass. But we still made it.

The good thing about trekking in the lean season was obviously the lack of large number of trekkers. My trekking partner and I found ourselves alone most of the time, enjoying the serenity and the place belonged to only us. We did bump into a few others but they were always the same people. Hundreds cross Thorung La each day in the trekking season. When we did, there were just about 30 of us.

Physical preparation for the trek

One must have a certain level of fitness in order to trek the circuit. But how fit is fit?

I didn’t have the time to get some training before doing the trek. I was stuck with office work and barely walked during the day. The only preparation I had was an hour of playing badminton a couple of weeks before leaving and climbing Mt. Apo.

It may be insufficient because I really had a hard time during the first few days. But normally, the body eventually adapts to the strenuous ordeal one has to endure everyday.

Gears and things to bring

I must admit that I may have brought too much clothes for the trek, afraid of running out of something to wear and getting smelly. But hey, we all make mistakes, right?

Everything you need for the trek can be bought in Thamel or Pokhara. I brought most of the stuff that I already have and acquired those I didn't in Thamel. They are cheap but they definitely aren't what they claim to be. Quality varies. I rented a ‘TNF’ down sleeping bag in Kathmandu and it was really good. I bought a rain cover but my backpack itself was more water resistant than the cover.

Here’s a list of what I used and brought with me on the trek.

55L backpack - Black Diamond Onyx 55

Down sleeping bag – rented in Thamel at 70cents/day, I was told that it has a rating of -40. I was warm most nights

Down jacket – rented in Thamel at 50cents/day, I might have survived even without it

Drybags – 25L and 5L, for waterproofing of down gears

Trekking boots – TNF Storm Midcut, they say your shoes have to be properly broken in. I used relatively new shoes (and by that I mean they've only been used previously during a 3-day climb) and my feet were fine. It must be the thick cushion. I had blisters but it was because I used bad socks on the first two days.

Trekking socks – Smartwool (midweight), Wigwam (lightweight), two pairs of liner socks

Cotton socks – for sleeping, and I brought too much of these

Synthetic and waterproof jacket – Columbia interchange jacket, good enough

Baselayers – Patagonia Capelene 1 and 2, I mostly used them on their own during trekking; Uniqlo Heatteach, for sleeping

Tights – Patagonia Capelene 1 and Uniqlo Heattech for trekking, and a cheap one for sleeping

Quick dry long-sleeved shirt – Lagalag (yay to local brands!), used it for six straight days, including two sweaty days and it didn't smell at all

Trekking pants – I used two pairs, one for trekking and the other one I kept clean for sleeping

Windproof pants – bought at Thamel for 22 dollars, I would have been fine even without it

Trekking pole – bought at Thamel for 8 dollars, loved it

Headlamp – much needed for those night trips to toilets or when the power goes out

Nalgene bottles – 1L and 1.5L

Aquatabs – bottled water is very expensive and not good for the environment

Fleece headwear

Underwear and my much-loved sports bra

Flip flops

Sunscreen – never forget them

Sunglasses

Personal toiletries

Toilet paper and wet wipes – wet wipes, my other best friend

Medicine – for headache, stomach upset, colds, the usual

Chocolates – bought in Manila and flown to Nepal. It was an added weight to my pack but I am still paranoid due to a bad experience from buying chocolates somewhere in South America. And besides, it was more expensive in the circuit. I guess I have saved more than 20 dollars.

I wish I had bought a book because there was nothing to do at the guesthouses in the late afternoon after the trek. It’s easy to exchange books with other trekkers once you’re done reading your book.

All of me. Photo credits: F.

Permits

Before entering the Annapurna Conservation Area, one has to secure a trekking permit (2200 Rupees) at the Nepal Tourism Board Tourist Information Center in Kathmandu. Permits are also available in Pokhara and Besisahar. Trekkers who enter the area without the proper permits would have to pay more than that.

Trekkers are also required to get a TIMS permit at the same office. I paid 1997 Rupees as an independent trekker but for those who hire guides/porters or use a trekking agency, the price is just half. It is supposed to help rescuers find someone in case he gets lost. (If that’s the case, I wouldn't be found because circumstances didn't let me follow the itinerary I listed on my TIMS card.)

Aside from the fees, 4 copies of passport-size photos are also required to apply for the permits. For the TIMS card, you will have to write down your itinerary and insurance policy number. At first, I was vacillating over getting an insurance that will cover hiking up to more than 4000m. The only option I had was World Nomads but they would rob me about a hundred dollars for a three-week trek. Thinking of the worst possible scenario, I decided to go for it. The price of the insurance was nothing compared to the thousands of dollars helicopter evacuation would cost.

The NTB office was a 20-minute walk from Thamel. It is located in a quiet and beautiful building but the way to it shocked me in a way that I couldn't easily forget.

The Annapurna Circuit trek

The ongoing road construction in the circuit is the biggest concern of trekkers because it takes away the joy of walking on trails. Although the road can’t be completely avoided, the ACAP created alternative trails. I downloaded a free e-book (Trekking the Annapurna Circuit including NATT) and used it as my guide.

The trail starts in Besisahar, a six to seven-hour bus ride from Kathmandu. The bus stops at the ACAP/TIMS office where every trekker must register. Since I was meeting my partner in Bhulbule, I skipped the first 9km of the trek and took a very bumpy bus ride instead. Other people I met took the jeep straight to Chame.

The entire circuit is about 210km. The trails are well-marked and it is almost impossible to get lost (although we did, somehow). Red/white paints mark the primary trails while secondary trails are marked with blue/white paints. The marks are easy to follow but there are some areas, especially on side treks, where I had trouble finding them or maybe they didn't exist. You just had to trust your gut that you are going the right way.

Five to seven hours of walking are spent each day. The longest day is during the crossing of the pass which took me about nine hours.

Most villages are about two hours’ walk away from each other so in theory there really is no need to fear getting hungry. Except from High Camp to Muktinath where there is only one small cluster of guesthouses in between. And during the low season, many guesthouses in smaller villages are also closed.

Itinerary

The trek can be completed in as little as 12 days if you decide to take the jeep or bus in Jomsom at the other side of the pass. I originally planned to do a 20-day trek but the weather didn’t allow me to follow my itinerary. The side trek to Tilicho Lake was just impossible because of too much snow.

Day 0 - Kathmandu – Bhulbule

Day 1 - Bhulbule – Jagat

Day 2 - Jagat – Dharapani

Day 3 - Dharapani – Chame

Day 4 - Chame – Ghyaru

Day 5 - Ghyaru – Manang

Day 6 - Rest day in Manang

Day 7 - Manang – Churi Ledar

Day 8 - Rest day in Ledar (due to bad weather)

Day 9 - Churi Ledar – High Camp

Day 10 - High Camp – Thorung La – Muktinath

Day 11 - Muktinath – Kagbeni

Day 12 - Kagbeni – Marpha

Day 13 - Marpha – Kokethanti

Day 14 - Kokethanti – Kalopani (via Titi Lake)

Day 15 - Kalopani – Dana

Day 16 - Dana – Chitre (didn’t make it to Ghorepani for Poon Hill)

Day 17 – Chitre – Hille – jeep to Naya Pul – bus to Pokhara

Trekking solo

Almost everyone will advice you against trekking solo. For safety purposes, it’s better to hike with at least one other person. But it’s not prohibited to go there alone. I have met several solo trekkers, although they’re all guys. And it’s always different when you are a girl.

I used the Trekking Partners website to find someone I could go with. I hiked with her from Bhulbule to Muktinath. After that, we separated. I trekked solo for a week, only walking with other trekkers a couple of times. No untoward incident happened and I felt completely safe the whole time.

Is a guide and/or porter needed?

You don’t really need a guide because the trail is very easy to follow. And guidebooks describing the trails are sufficient. A guide would have been helpful to explain about the culture and traditions of the people living in the Annapurna Region and to introduce its flora and fauna. But it’s way out of my budget.

I have only met three other people who hired porters for the trek. In case you don’t have a porter and realized that you need one along the way, a porter can be hired in many of the villages.

The danger of altitude sickness

The thing about altitude sickness is that no matter how fit you are, you can never be sure that you are not going to get it. Ascending very fast may increase the chance of acquiring altitude sickness. In order to avoid it, an ascent of only 500m a day is recommended once you get past 3000m. It is also better to sleep lower than the highest altitude attained in a day. For the circuit, at least two days of acclimatization should be spent in Manang.

Headache, loss of appetite and nausea are the first signs of altitude sickness. This should be taken seriously as it could worsen and lead to death if taken for granted. Those who are experiencing it should stay at height for a few days or descend. I've met a couple of trekkers who had to go down and were not able to complete the circuit because their symptoms didn't go away even after staying at height.

Accommodation

Expect it to be very basic. Rooms usually have two single beds although there are a few with only one or three. Mattresses are okay and they may or may not provide blankets. You just have to ask if there’s none or if you need more.

Squat-type toilet is the norm but some have the western-type ones. High camp has the worst toilet. I’ve only had rooms with attached toilet twice.

Rooms are very cheap but they require that you have your dinner and breakfast in the guesthouse where you are staying. You’ll have to pay a lot more if you don’t. The cheapest I paid was 50 Rupees for a shared room. The most expensive was in Marpha at 300 Rupees. Some trekkers ask the owners if they could have the room for free if they eat there.

Hot shower is available in many guesthouses, but not all. If they’re solar-heated, it’s better to take a shower once you get there or else other people would have used up all the hot water. If there’s no sun, some guesthouses offer buckets of hot water for a few dollars. I've also tried electric- and gas-heated shower.

You could charge your batteries in the guesthouses but there are rooms that don’t have sockets. I only paid for charging twice. Other guesthouses don’t charge you for charging your batteries.

Is there internet in the villages?

If you badly need it, some villages have internet access. It’s definitely not free and very expensive. I never tried it and the person I know who used it said it was painfully slow.

But who needs the cyber world when you’re in paradise?

Food

The menu is basically the same in the guesthouses – rice, noodles, eggs, porridge, soup, bread, pancake, tea and coffee. Soft drinks, juice, chocolates and other snacks are also available. There are some who offer more like pasta and pizza; yak cheese and meat in others. In the apple-producing region of Marpha and nearby villages, apple products are a must-try.

Dal bhat – steamed rice, lentil soup and vegetable curry - is the staple food in Nepal. Compared to others, it is relatively more expensive but you get unlimited serving. And since I don’t really eat a lot, my diet consisted of varieties of fried rice and chow mien instead.

The general rule in the circuit is that the higher you get, the more expensive the food gets.

Dal bhat. Photo credits: R. Escanlar.

So how much does it cost?

It depends. But doing it independently and without a guide or porter is the cheapest way.

Here's a breakdown of my expenses (in US dollars):

ACAP Permit and TIMS Card - 42

Gears rented and bought in Thamel - 70

Transportation - 20 (I rented a jeep for 10 dollars)

Food and accommodation: 230 (for 18 days)

Insurance: 96