Monday, January 12, 2015

huayna potosi: my failed attempt to summit a 6000+m peak




Standing 6088m high, Huayna Potosi near the city of La Paz in Bolivia is considered as the easiest mountain above 6000m to climb. Each year, many backpackers who aren’t exactly mountaineers but simply outdoor enthusiasts attempt to reach the summit of this mountain. Armed with crampons and ice axe, the successful climber is rewarded with an astounding view of sunrise over the Andes upon reaching its peak. And maybe the bragging rights, if he desires.

Returning to the city from my journey around the stunning landscapes of Bolivia, I had this hunger of doing something really challenging. Huayna Potosi had been on my mind but I had doubts that I could make it. The only peak I had successfully scaled that time wasn’t even half of its height. Perhaps I had been talking to the wrong people when I decided to sign up for a 3-day climb of the mountain.

In a three-day climb, the summit attempt only commences at an ungodly hour of the third day. The first day is generally spent on ice climbing practice and the next on a 4-hour hike up to the high camp. I was climbing with a French couple who said that they also didn’t have much experience with mountains and that their only advantage over me was that snow and cold wasn’t new to them. We’ve had much of our conversations filled with charades. I really wish I had studied Spanish before going to South America.

We went to a nearby glacier to practice the use of our crampons and ice axe. Just like most of the glaciers around the world, that one was also receding. And it had been receding fast, according to our guide. Only a few years back, the glacier extends much further.

We were taught how to use the ice axe as support while walking up or down the slope. And how it could help us in case we accidentally slide down. The hardest part was climbing an almost vertical slope of ice. With crampons on, we had to thrust the tip of our boots on the ice and push ourselves with the help of the ice axe to a wall of ice that is almost five meters high. Upon completing the task, I was told by my guide that I did great and he was confident that I would make it to the summit. Apparently, he was wrong.

A French group was climbing a day ahead of us. I was supposed to go with them but I felt like I wasn’t ready to leave yet and hoped that I wouldn’t be sick anymore after a day. They all made it to the summit and were very positive that our group could also make it. They suggested that I get a porter. Maybe I should have gotten one but everyone was going back to the city that day. I didn’t have a choice then but to carry my own pack.

The supposed four-hour climb to high camp on our second day took me more than five hours. While I was carrying all of my stuff at the beginning, my guide offered to take some of my things when he noticed that I was lagging behind. I gave him my water bottle. And then my sleeping bag. By the time we reached the first high camp, I just wanted to lie down. But ours was still further ahead, 200m higher.

I looked up. It was a very steep climb. My guide started to walk and I hesitantly followed. Every move I made caused my heart to beat really fast and hard. For every minute of climbing, I needed three. My guide kept on telling me that we’re almost there. But I couldn’t see the camp anymore. He told me he’d carry my backpack. I wanted to say no but it was getting late and we needed to move faster. I gave it to him and he carried it on top of his own backpack which was probably a lot heavier.

Once we reached the refugio, I collapsed on the bed. We were so far behind that the other guide was already preparing our dinner. After having our meals, we went straight to bed.



It was a restless night for the three of us. I wasn’t even sure if I get to sleep. All I could remember was being really cold and then hearing the voices of our guides waking us up, telling us to prepare. I was still groggy as I put on my boots and gaiters. My guide strapped a harness around me. The two of us would be connected with a rope during the climb for safety. I checked the time and it was 1:30 in the morning. It was snowing when we stepped out of the refugio.

A lot of trekkers from the other refugio were already making their way up. I could feel their enthusiasm but mine was lacking. I wasn’t feeling well, though it must be purely psychological. I only had my water and camera in my backpack but it felt like I was carrying a lot more. Aided only with our head lamps, we followed the tracks made by the groups who went ahead of us. And though we were walking at a steady pace at the start, I had felt really tired after some time.

I kept on moving, but each step I took made my leg muscles shout for pain. My heart was pumping so hard it felt like it would beat out of my chest. I took really deep breaths but the thin oxygen in the air wasn’t enough to supply what my body needed. My stomach was tightening and I was about to throw up. I called my guide and lied about having altitude sickness. I didn’t want to do it anymore.

My guide was named Jesus. And I thought since I got Jesus by my side the whole time, I’ve got nothing to fear (pun intended). But Jesus was so merciful that when I told him that I couldn’t go any further and that I wanted to turn back, he immediately agreed. I wished he pushed me a little more. Maybe it had made a big difference.

Jesus untied the rope and ran to the other group to inform them that we’re turning back. I sat on the snow feeling miserable. I still wanted to reach the summit but the pain and discomfort was already too much to bear. I felt deceived. Why call it ‘easiest’ when it wasn’t even easy?

I wanted to blame others for my failure. My uncomfortable boots. The pain on my back because the backpack they lent me wasn’t good enough. The lack of sleep. My colds and clogged nose. Even hyperacidity. But more than a year later, I realized that it was simply I who must take the blame, if I really must blame someone. I wasn’t prepared physically. Neither was I prepared mentally. Just recently while trekking in Nepal, I learned that in order to achieve something, one must accept and surpass the pain that goes with it. I didn’t know it back then. And now that I’ve gained more wisdom, I’m ready to face that mountain again.


2017, come fast.

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