a complete guide to the three passes trek

“Once is never enough.”

That’s one of Nepal’s tourism slogan and I could attest to the reality of that statement. The first time that I stepped foot on the Himalayas was in 2014 when I did the Annapurna Circuit trek. (You can read about that adventure here.) Even before completing that trek, I vowed to myself that I will go back to Nepal to see more of its beauty and experience its diverse culture. So in 2016, I set out for another (much longer) adventure. I walked the Manaslu Circuit, Tsum Valley, parts of the Annapurna Circuit, Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp treks (which I may or may not write about soon) for 32 days. Those combined treks took its toll on me not just physically but also emotionally which made me decide to forgo my initial plan of trekking in the Everest region. But after a week of rest, my feet were feeling the itch and I just couldn’t pass on the experience. So there I was, on the plane to Lukla and now almost a year later, after talking to a friend who wanted to see Everest, I am writing this to help people who are dreaming of walking among the shadows of the tallest mountains in the world.

Mount Everest and Khumbu Glacier as seen from Kala Patthar.

The Trek

Before anything else, you have to decide which trek you want to do. While the Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek is the most popular and one that needs just about 12 days to complete, there are other options. The Three Passes Trek is much longer and as the name implies, there are three 5000+m high passes which have to be crossed. The Gokyo Lakes Trek could also be done in just two weeks and takes you to the beautiful valley and turquoise waters of these lakes. All these treks start and end in Lukla. The Three Passes route is a circuit. The other two are there-and-back treks but they can be combined by crossing one of the passes.

The Three Passes Trek (the one that I did) takes a minimum of 18 days to complete, including acclimatization days and a few side treks. The three passes from east to west are called Kongma La (5535m), Cho La (5420m) and Renjo La (5360m). (La is the Nepali word for pass.) It can be walked in either clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. Most of the trekking guides I met said that it’s better to do it counter-clockwise, because of the steepness of the assault to the passes walking the other way around. The advantage of doing it clockwise is having to cross the lower passes before Kongma La, which is the tallest and arguably the most difficult.

If you think of the Three Passes trail from Namche Bazaar as a circle, the path to EBC follows the same route for a couple of days to the east, diverging at the village of Dingboche and reconnects with it at Lobuche. From there, it is a day’s walk to the Base Camp. The Gokyo lakes trekking trail departs earlier, taking a north-northwest direction at the middle, meeting the Three Passes trail at the Gokyo Village. If you want to continue to EBC, you have to cross Cho La.


How hard is it?

The most common reaction I get when people find out the I did this trek was ‘WOAH!’ with some sort of disbelief and adoration. I always just sneer, knowing that what they have in mind was far from what I had gone through. Most people associate it to actually climbing Mount Everest. And this is probably one reason why they get daunted with the idea of doing it.

Those two are very different. It’s not even an apple-versus-orange comparison. It’s more like an apple versus a piece of paper. Climbing Everest requires extensive training, mountaineering skills, support team and of course, tons of money. Trekking to the Base Camp or the Three Passes doesn’t involve any special skills. I didn’t have any. The only thing I have is the intense desire to do it. And I could lug a 15-kilogram pack and walk persistently for about six hours a day despite all the discomfort my body feels.

Yak porters. If you come across them on a narrow trail, stay away from the cliff side.

When to go

The best time, which is expected to be the busiest, to go trekking in Nepal is during autumn, which is from September to Mid-November, when the rainy season has passed and the temperature still isn’t that cold. However, I suggest going later in September because the monsoon seems to last longer these days. The second best time is from March to May. This is also the time when mountaineers attempt to reach the summit of Everest. The trail would be very busy but you will get to see all the ‘action’ at the Base Camp. The disadvantage (if I could call it a disadvantage) of trekking during this time, as I was told, was that parts of the trail may be very muddy and slushy because of the melting snow.

I trekked for 23 days in Mid-November to December. I missed the crowd, which is a very good thing. But I found it too cold already, reaching about -18°C at Gorak Shep. Many teahouses also close by December, the owners descending to warmer villages and comes back when trekking season resumes. The same is true for the monsoon season when trekkers are few.

Getting to Nepal

Coming from Manila, the cheapest option to get to Nepal is by flying to Kathmandu via Kuala Lumpur with Air Asia. I've seen round trip promo tickets for as low as 10,000 pesos.

There's no need to apply for a visa prior to your departure. Visa-on-arrival costs 25$ for 15 days, 40$ for 30 days and 100$ for 90 days. If you want, you could extend your stay for up to 5 months for a fee. But staying more than the number of days your visa allows would cost more. You only need a passport-sized photo when getting the visa so don't forget to bring one.

Gokyo Village and Ngozumba Glacier, the longest in Nepal.

Permits and fees

You will need to get two permits. First is the Trekker’s Information Management System or TIMS card. For people who are taking a guide, the fee is 1000NPR per person (1$ = 106NPR in 2016) while for independent trekkers, it is 2000NPR. The second is the park entrance permit costing 3390NPR since those three treks I mentioned are located inside the Sagarmatha National Park.

Both permits could be secured at the Nepal Tourism Board Tourist Information Center in Kathmandu, at the outskirts of Thamel. It’s easy to find using your Google Map. The TIMS requires two copies of passport size photos. And also, take your passport with you when applying. Make sure you have your TIMS card when you go trekking or else you would have to pay a fine. It is also possible to obtain the park entrance permit along the trail, in the village of Monjo. This is what I do since I only had enough money for the TIMS card when I went to their office.


Trekking insurance

When applying for the TIMS card, you will fill-out a form and one of the information you have to write is your insurance policy number. I know someone who got away without having an insurance and probably just jotted down some random numbers and characters. Sure, there’s no way they could check if what you wrote is real or not but that insurance is for you, in case of emergency. Thankfully, nothing bad happened to him during the trek.

You could get cheap insurance but their benefits may not be what you want for a high altitude trek. They also may not be of any use in case of real emergency where you need to be evacuated by a helicopter. This is a serious matter because helicopter rescue costs thousands of dollars. Or your insurance may cover it but not if you’re trekking beyond a certain altitude they would specify, usually only up to 4000m.

I trekked with a relatively cheap insurance and only realized that it doesn’t include helicopter rescue when I was already on my first trek in the Manaslu region. I couldn’t justify to myself spending a hundred dollars’ worth of insurance for a three-week trek so I chose not to upgrade. Note that I am not telling you to scrimp on insurance. I made my decision basing on the knowledge that I already knew what my body could do and that I recognize when I have to give up. I just hoped to heavens that I would be kept away from freak accidents or things I couldn’t control like bad weather or earthquakes.

Helicopter rescue in Gokyo.

On altitude sickness

I've witnessed people who have to be rescued or give up the trek either because of accidents or symptoms of altitude sickness that don’t go away. The more common reason though, based on my experience is the latter.

Altitude or acute mountain sickness (AMS) usually starts when you ascend to ~2500-3000m. Common symptoms include headache, dizziness, irregular sleep, difficulty breathing and lack of appetite. If you have the symptoms, don’t go any farther and spend the night in the nearest village. If the symptoms don’t go away or get severe, immediately descend. Do not take AMS lightly because it could lead to life-threatening situations.

There's no telling who will get altitude sickness but no one is immune from it may you be an athlete or just a regular guy. Some people take a pill called Diamox but I’ve met several who are against this because what the pill does is just to hide the symptoms and not really cure AMS. I’ve never taken that pill. What I did was follow the rule of Climb high, sleep low. It basically says that you must have walked at a higher elevation during the day compared to where you will be spending the night. Another rule is to sleep not more than 300m higher than where you spend your previous night. This may not be possible in some parts of the trek and this is where the acclimatization hikes or side treks become significant.


Gears

If you are like me who is coming from a tropical country, your cold weather gear may be limited to a fleece jacket and a windbreaker or a waterproof jacket. Worry not, because all you’ll be needing could be bought at Thamel. If you don’t know it yet, Thamel is the mecca of not just those who come to Nepal to trek but just about everyone. You will also most likely spend your first and last nights around this area.

It would be a lot cheaper to buy your gears once you get in Nepal instead of shopping say in Manila, for branded outdoor products. Just bear in mind that what you’ll be getting are cheap knock-offs unless you buy them at the brand’s actual store in Thamel. Well, they may be cheap but they would be good enough to last your trek, or another.

Gorak Shep. The black, low peak to the left is Kala Patthar. The trail to EBC is towards the right of the photo.

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Want and idea of what you should take with you? Here’s a list of what I had during the trek.

Backpack – 55 liters

Trekking boots AND trail running shoes - I liked my boots because they keep my feet warm and dry but there are days when they hurt my feet like hell so I change to trail running shoes

Sleeping bag – Highly recommended. The teahouses provide thick blankets but you may be limited to one when there are lots of trekkers. It could be rented in Thamel for 1$ a day.

Synthetic jacket – I brought two because the first one I used on my other trek was not warm enough. The second one I bought in Thamel. If you want a down jacket, you can buy or rent it in Thamel.

Waterproof jacket / Windbreaker

2 sets of base layers (top and bottom) -  merino wool and capilene. The Uniqlo Heattech line is a good cheaper option

Trekking pants – I have bias over the convertible ones

Socks – 2 pairs of merino wool and 2 pairs of liner socks

Sleeping clothes – pants, socks, base layers and a shirt which I never wore while trekking

Beanie

Warm gloves

Slippers – for if you use the shower

Sunglasses

Baseball cap

Water bottle and 2L bladder

Aquatabs – for water purification. Bottled water is very expensive and not good for the environment.

Trekking pole – better to have two poles

Toiletries, toilet paper, wet wipes

Lip balm and sunscreen

Trail food (about a kilogram of chocolates)

Camera and phone with local SIM

Book, notebook, pen – if it’s not your thing, bring something else you could use to pass the time in the afternoons. If you trek in the shoulder season, you may be the only guest in the teahouse.

Map - pick it up in Thamel. It's very helpful.

First aid kit – paracetamol, loperamide, anti-histamine, band-aids


Do you need a guide?

Trekking in the Sagarmatha National Park does not require you to take a guide or a porter. Actually, there is no need for a guide because the trails are well-marked and if you are not sure which route to take, wait for others. There is a regular traffic of both trekkers, locals and yak/horse porters, unless you are trekking in the dead of winter.

If you want to make your trek richer, then do take a guide with you. If you don’t want to carry a heavy load, hire a porter. This way, you are also giving more jobs to locals. Hiring a guide costs 20-25$ per day while for a porter, it’s about 15$. You don’t have to pay for their food and accommodation. Just make sure that they have gears which are warm enough because you employed them and they are still your responsibility. If you are sure about hiring a guide and/or porter, arrange it in Kathmandu. Either they will be coming with you or you’ll meet them in Lukla. Hiring a guide/porter on the spot is quite expensive. I considered hiring a porter to cross Cho La but shut the idea when I was informed that it would cost me 100$.

Local porters. Always, I mean ALWAYS, give way when you come across them.

Note on trekking solo

Want to trek solo in Nepal without a guide or porter? If you find that no one supports your idea, do not be discouraged. Unless otherwise stated, it is not illegal to do so. Sure, there is safety in numbers but if you know your capability and are cautious enough I don’t think going solo is a bad idea. Even if you go solo, you’ll eventually meet people on the trail whom you could trek with. If you’re like me who prefers walking in solitude, just make sure to go with a group on the critical parts of the trail where you don’t feel confident like when crossing the passes.


Getting to and from the trailhead

The easiest and fastest way is by taking a 20-minute flight to Lukla. But it’s also the most expensive with roundtrip flights hovering at 300$. There’s no way to save on that. Promo fare is not in their language. If you are taking a guide or porter with you, their fare would be A LOT cheaper, equivalent to what locals pay.

Lukla is said to be one of the world’s most dangerous airports; with a short runway, one end of which is a cliff and the other a concrete wall. So for the nerve-wracking experience, I suggest flying at least one way. And watch the planes land and take off. You’ll find it really amazing.

If you have more than enough time, you could start the trek in either Jiri or Salleri. Both could be reached by bus or jeeps. Jiri is a lot farther, taking at least a week of trekking, crossing three low passes, to reach Lukla. Salleri is three days’ walk from Lukla. The scenery and climate in these parts are a lot different because they are in a lower elevation.

In my case, I flew to Lukla which is something to write about (maybe in the near future). I accidentally exited via Salleri (another story). I took the shared jeep back to Kathmandu which costs 1500 NPR. It's cheap but it's really cramped. I was seated with someone who said that he prefers the bus over the jeep, though a bit more expensive, it's more forgiving to the legs.

Our plane to Lukla. The flight was a bit scary.

Accommodation and food

Most of the popular treks in Nepal are teahouse treks. This means spending the night in teahouses which are basically guesthouses, instead of camping and preparing your own food. The Three Passes Trek (and EBC) is not an exception. So there’s no need to bring a tent, or stove, or food supplies.

While some guesthouses appear nicer than the others, on the inside the difference may not be very apparent. All are really basic and toilets are always shared. Most rooms have two single beds (don’t worry, they have mattresses) while a few have three or a double bed. That’s it. If you’re lucky, you might get a room with a bedside table. You can ask to see the room first before getting it. Try to ask for one which gets the afternoon sun. They will provide you with a blanket and you can have extra unless they are full. Almost all also have hot shower and it costs about 400 NPR. Note that hot water is not unlimited. It is expensive but consider the effort and resources needed to provide you with it.

Rooms cost 100 – 300 NPR. It’s dirt cheap but the rule is that you have to take your dinner and breakfast at the place where you’re staying, no exception. If you decide to do otherwise, you will have to pay more for the room. Sometimes, you can haggle for the room cost if you’ll also be having your lunch there. Or they’ll give it to you for free without asking. It happened to me a few times but don’t expect that it’s the norm.

Everything gets very expensive as you get higher. The 150 NPR Snickers bar in Lukla (which is 80 in Kathmandu) could get as much as 350 NPR in Gorak Shep. Don’t feel as if the locals are overcharging you. There are no roads in the place where you’re trekking. The goods have to be transported manually by locals or horses and yak porters for several days. So even though you’ll find everything you’ll need in the villages, I highly recommend taking as much trail food and toilet paper with you if you want to cut cost. To beat, I paid 500 NPR for a flimsy roll of TP in Lobuche.

This is the typical room you will get, minus the mess.

The food offered in teahouses are also pretty much the same although quality may vary. The staple Nepali food is dal bhat which consists of rice, lentil soup and vegetable curry. It’s usually one of the most expensive options in the menu but that’s because you can get unlimited refills. If you’re not a big eater, you can choose between fried rice, noodles, potatoes, momos, spaghetti, macaroni and others. Some even offer pizza. You can also have porridge, muesli, pancake, chapatti, etc., if you want something else for breakfast. Meat is not common but you can have eggs. Expect to spend about 15-20$ per day on accommodation and food including a pot of tea. (Yes, I consider tea a necessity especially on those very cold mornings and evenings.)

You may be in a remote area but one thing you could count on is that there's electricity in the teahouses. Hence, you could charge your batteries. It doesn't come cheap though. So one thing you may want to invest on is a reliable solar charger.

There's no need to pre-book accommodations. There’s also virtually no way to do so if you are trekking on your own. During the peak season when teahouses get full, you may want to have a guide/porter who could go ahead of you to secure a room. Otherwise, start your day earlier so you could get to your destination before everyone else does.

Three Passes Trek itinerary

Day 1: Lukla (2840) to Monjo (2835) – Take the earliest flight to Lukla to avoid flight delays and cancellation later in the day. While Phakding (2610) is the more popular evening stopover, walk farther to Monjo which is a better choice considering acclimatization.

Day 2: Monjo to Namche Bazaar (3440) – If you don’t have the park entrance permit yet, secure one near the end of the village. There will be a long climb to get to Namche. And also a dizzying bridge-crossing (if you have fear of hanging bridges like I do) where you could see Everest. You could reward yourself in the bars and bakeshops that abound in Namche. Also look for a store that sells yak cheese. Thank me later. In the afternoon, head to the Tenzing Norgay Memorial Stupa for sunset and a view of Everest.

Day 3: Acclimatization hike to Khunde (3840) and Khumjung (3780) – Make the loop to those two villages. In Khunde, climb up to the ridge where the Hillary Memorial is.

Day 4: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3860) or Pangboche (3930) – If you decide to stay at Tengboche, visit the monastery. If you walk further to Pangboche, you can visit the Ama Dablam Base Camp (4 hours round trip) the next day.

Day 5: Pangboche to Dingboche (4410) – You will have enough time to reach Dingboche even if you take the side trek to Ama Dablam B.C. (4600) Unless you get lost because there are no signs and there are lots of criss-crossing trails used by grazing animals. If you skip it, you can spend the extra time climbing Nangkar Tsang (5083) near Dingboche. I highly suggest doing any of the two for the sake of acclimatization. Climb high, sleep low.

The trail isn't always this clear and wide.

Day 6: Dingboche to Chukkhung (4730) – EBC trekkers head northwest to Lobuche on this day. It is a short day for people doing the Three Passes so go hike up to Chukkhung Ri (5550) in the afternoon.

Day 7: Side trek to Island Peak B.C. (4970) - If you are not pressed on time, head to the base camp and Imja Tsho (lake). Be sure to bring someone with you. The remoteness of this area crept me out.

Day 8: Chukkhung to Lobuche (4910) via Kongma La (5535) – Start early because this could be a 9-hour day. If you are trekking without a guide, stick with other people, preferably those who have one when crossing the glacier. I didn’t find it as dangerous as what some people make it seem like. But do watch out for the cairns if you think you’ve lost the trail and also some minor rock fall.

Day 9: Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5110) and EBC (5364) – If you’re fast enough and you only want to reach EBC and don’t have plans of climbing Kala Patthar, leave your things in Lobuche and have a long day instead. Gorak Shep is bitterly cold.

Day 10: Kala Patthar (5550) and Gorak Shep to Lobuche – But then again, I highly suggest to not miss out on Kala Patthar for a closer view of Everest. And no, you can’t see Everest from the base camp.

Day 11: Lobuche to Dzongla (4830) – EBC trekkers descend to Pheriche, Namche and then Lukla.

Day 12: Dzongla to Dragnag (4700) via Cho La (5420) – Before reaching the pass, you will have to cross an icy glacier. It’s a lot better and safer if you have crampons.

Day 13: Dragnag to Gokyo (4790) – Pay attention to the trail going down the glacier. I found it too easy to miss. Also, do watch out for rock falls at the western edge of the glacier. The trail crosses this area. And then prepare yourself for one of the most beautiful views on this trek. If you still have energy, climb up to Gokyo Ri (5360).

Day 14: Side trek to Lakes 4 (4870) and 5 (4990) – It’s a relatively flat hike. And the best view of Everest is from the moraine near Lake 5. Trust me. I was told it’s possible to continue to Cho Oyu B.C. (5200) but it’s probably going to be a very long day. If you’re not on a hurry, spend another day in Gokyo and take a stroll to Lakes 1 (4740) and 2 (4710).

The village of Dingboche. The family running the Ama Dablam Lodge were very kind to me.

Day 15: Gokyo to Lumde (4368) via Renjo La (5360) – Someone told me that Renjo La is so easy that you’ll find yaks crossing that pass. I don’t agree to that though. If you want to skip the pass, you could choose to head down and reach Lukla in two or three days.

Day 16: Lumde to Namche Bazaar – This is a long walk. If you are not in a hurry to leave the mountains yet, stay in Thame (3820). The village is curious but I didn't have enough time to explore it.

Day 17: Namche Bazaar to Lukla – Job well done. It’s going to be hard leaving the Khumbu region. But all good things must come to an end. Take the morning flight back to Kathmandu the next day.

So there it is, you are ready for your dream trek. I'm pretty sure by the time you complete this trek, the question that would linger in your mind would be "When will I be able to get back to Nepal?" But for now, if you have more questions about planning, you can ask me.